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 ADVANCED
South Fork
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 
1/2 Route, AKA Unknown S 
Altered States T 
Arete Sport Climb T 
Center Route T 
Dost Mitra S 
Expecting T 
Fred Beckey T 
Hall of Smears S 
High Noon S 
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 
Hueco Direct Start T 
Hueco Traverse S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I Stab Ourselves S 
Last Rites T 
Namaste S 
Pins and Needles S 
Pulp Friction S 
Sand Surfin' S 
Self Abuse S 
Shotgun T 
Southern Comfort T 
Spiderfinger T 
Tail Of The Cock T 
Tango T 
Touch Me Fall T 
Twins Paradox S 
Xanadu T 
Yahweh T 
Unsorted Routes:

Expecting 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob and Kaydi Draney, Sebastian Luque 1994
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: Brian Aitken on Jun 9, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Attached is an area overview of what we called &qu...

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Description 

Four pitches of slab climbing, face and chimney to the top out.

Protection 

There's a pin and a bolt but it's mostly runout on the slab until you hit the chimney where it eats up some big cams and passive gear.


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By the professor
Jun 2, 2013

FA by Matt-from-Pennsylvania Barley in 2002 (solo?). From the comments below, I guess Matt did a repeat ascent in 2002.
By M.L. Barker
Oct 25, 2013

This route is called Expecting.
The first two pitches were put up by Bob and Kaydi Draney in 1994 and go at about 5.7.
Kaydi was 4-5 months pregnant and got woosey at the end of the second pitch.
Bob pounded in the pin as part of the anchor to back off the route.

Bob and Sebastian Luque returned about two weeks later and did pitches 3-5 above, including placing the bolt. 3rd pitch was graded around 10a if memory serves, following a seam trending left on pretty blank slab with thin protection.
The 4th pitch starts in an alcove with a hard move into a nasty off-width. After 30-40 feet reach easier climbing. The remaining pitches are wandering, easier 5th class climbing.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 28, 2013

What's the beta on this route? Location? Gear?
By M.L. Barker
Nov 9, 2013

Bear in mind this is from about 1995. The photo attachment reads..
The Detachable Block area is broken into two sections, the lower portion and the main wall. Approaches to the lower portion take between 10 and 20 minutes, whereas the approach to the main wall area takes about 30-45 minutes. Reach the lower portion by walking approx. 10 minutes along the main trail to where there's a 15' boulder, the trail veer right then left. About that point, a small side trail exits to the left and switchbacks up toward the Top Rope Block Area.
The Layered Bowl area and Expecting is reached by turning left and up from the Top Rope Block area. Walk over a small ridge and down into a dry stream bed. Climb out of the stream bed into an oak filled grotto. From there, step up into the layered bowl and move up past a 30 foot pine tree (50 now probably).
Expecting begins about 150 feet up and left of this pine tree.

Expecting 5.10a/A1 (clean)
pro: 1 bolt, 1 pin, Friends to #4, #1,2 tcu's, small to medium stoppers, lots of runners.
Pitch 1 - Begin in a small bowl to the right of a large cave. Move up and right past a small, short crack below a bush. Climb past the bush and up along a crack to a 15 foot pine tree. Belay. 5.6.
Pitch 2 - Continue up the main crack above the tree. Pass a pin and continue climbing till the crack peeters out. Face move up approx 15 feet and clip a bolt. Mantle up the small ledge and belay from small/medium stoppers or cams. 5.7+.
Pitch 3- climb straight up the crack to an alcove 5.10a/A1 (clean).
Pitch 4 - At the alcove move left to a larger crack and continue up another 30 feet to a flat platform. Belay.
Pitch 5-7 or so - Continue up mostly 3rd and 4th class ledges and gullies to near the base of the main wall. Walk up canyon and descend 2nd and 3rd class toward Top Rope Block area.
Note that any mention in the pdf/photo of bolts above 2nd pitch is not true.
There's a pdf added to the South Fork main page that contains an overview map of the whole canyon. This is area B on that overview map.