Expect No Mercy 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Greg Lowe |
| Submitted By: | kBobby on Jun 24, 2005 |
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The technical crux is getting above the lip, it is...
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Description In the center of the east face on Window Rock is a fist crack that comes down into a large alcove. This is Expect No Mercy. Climb the steep face past a couple of bolts to the crack. Pull through this pumpy fist crack roof and jam to the two-bolt anchor.
Protection Two (or three?) draws, #3 Camalot, #3.5 Camalot (optional), #2 Camalot, a couple of long slings for the larger cams.
It is easier if you avoid the crack at the lip.
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Expect no mercy!
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Psyched to be above the lip...
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| Comments on Expect No Mercy |
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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.10b
| We felt it was easier to go right of the crack, using the finger rail. Then, jam a left hand jam and pop it. Good short route, but a rope eater. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| Nice route and honestly the only one we did on the eastside. Summer days included wasps in the crack making upward progress tentative. Bouldery start with positive holds. Pulling the roof head-on was a bit of a problem (hung - dang!). If you don't have the juice to pull through using the hand crack look for positive holds to the left making it much easier. The handcrack above is fun but easy. 2 bolts, gear to 3 1/2", chain anchors. |
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 20, 2007
| Dude(-ette)! You're givin' away key onsite beta here. For shame! I won me a steak dinner betting a partner he couldn't onsite that thing (and remained silent when he Z clipped the bolts, hee hee, pure evil).
The old anchor to this route used to be a sling stickin' out of the crack attached to something. That something, when dug out, turned out to be an old Dolt nut. Pretty cool! |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c
| I did the crack straight on and thought it was jingus™™. Had a heel hook and mucho wiggling to get over the "roof" while pulling on cupped hands and fists. 10b? Ok.... for 5.12 leaders. I was told that if I pitched I might have decked too.... kickAssss™ Upper crack is trivial. |
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 20, 2007
| A cam or two, an attentive belay, and a bit of your supreme flexibility should work just fine...
Doesn't the City have a rep as being over graded? |
By Adam Floyd
From: Almo, Idaho and Las Vegas
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| Super fun, can be stitched up with a #3, 2, 1 New style camalot. Great crimps and jugs. 2 bolts to begin. Fist jam heel hook, who knew? Loved the heel hook in big shoes, swimmy. |
By CHopwood
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b
| This route looks intimidating but if you don't have the cams, I wouldn't worry about bringing them; this is a sport climb. The 2 bolts only protect the first 20 feet of climb, but that's all you need to pull all the moves up the face and over the roof. It is very well protected. The wall is steep and the holds are large and very very sharp. After climbing other routes on this face, I doubt the slab above the roof is even 5.6. |
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 20, 2012
| A #3, 2, and 1 is perfect advise.
Although you don't need the crack, I was glad to get a jam. But I'd recommend a little tape on the right hand... My skin got no mercy. |
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