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Expanding Man 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Tim Kemple?
Page Views: 1,307
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Aug 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Think expansion. Start sitting with left hand on the arete and the right hand on a good sidepull. Pull up and snag a perfect crimp with your right hand. Bump left hand up the arete. Crouch and dyno for all you're worth to the great jug above. Control the swing and you're in! Push out the mantle, of course.


On left side of a face that's stacked with crimpy problems on the Method Boulder


Pad for the uneven landing

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By Troy Fauteux
From: Hopkinton NH
Jul 20, 2016
rating: V9+ 7C

Hard committing moves. Good problem but a little to sharp and scary for me to call this classic. Footage starts at 2:56
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 21, 2016

Nice Troy. I'm happy to see that you stuck the dyno with one hand because it's good to know that it goes that way. Every time I hit the lip with one hand the swing is pretty hard to hold, but I can't get the double clutch method to work for me, so it seems like one hand will have to do for me. Crazy swing that way though.

This climb definitely favors the tall.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Aug 16, 2016

I was able to do it with just one hand as well, definitely didn't swing as much as Troy! If you hit the last hold sort of as far down and left as you can it becomes more of a down-pulling jug than a side-pulling jug, which is helpful, if that makes sense. Great problem.

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