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Wheeler Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aha! S 
Aquaphobia S 
Bean S 
Blush S 
Cobble Climb S 
Cruiser S 
Danger Boy S 
Economique S 
Exodus S 
Ezra S 
Goulara S 
Gridlock S 
It Is It S 
Little Buckaroo S 
Roadside Distraction S 
Saddle-Up Cupcake S 
Silent Mind S 
South of the Trout Farm S 
Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy) S 
Sunshine Dust Bunnies S 
Unknown, Left of Cobble Climb S 
Velocity Boy S 
Wheel, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Exodus 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1994/5
Page Views: 1,100
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Exodus Topo

Description 

One of the best routes at Wheeler. Fun and well-protected climbing on soft sandstone. A 5.10b "R" variation heads straight up from fourth bolt. A new route called Sunshine Dust Bunnies cuts left at the first bolt.

Starts left of the lower tunnel above the creekbed. Don't let the honking cars distract you.


Protection 

8 protection bolts to chain anchor.



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 23, 2006

8 bolts.

Most climbers skip the last bolt and exit up and right on an obvious crack/small-corner. Doing so reduces the route to just 5.10+. Hanging with the thin edges and clipping the last bolt feels more like 5.11b, unless you find the secret jug located way out left.

Be advised that the rock on this route is quite soft. Though the protection bolts are tightly spaced, all should be treated cautiously. More than one of them can be wiggled in their holes.

Gaining the first bolt requires 25 feet or so of awkward and unprotected climbing (5.7?). A #1 and #3 TCU protect this section nicely.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 20, 2007

I second the opinion that staying left on the last few bolts raises the grade quite a bit. Going direct makes most sense given the logic of the features, but the bolt line offers a seemingly different--yet compelling--line of travel.