Exodus 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | coyne & feiges 1977 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 2 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 2 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | david goldstein on Oct 25, 2003 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description Exodus is a worthwhile and well protected variation to the finish of pitch 1 of Genesis. From the left side of the G flake, about 10 or 15 from the anchors at the end of the pitch, head due left at a fixed pin w/ a chain link on it. Follow good bolts for about 20' to a right facing corner then up this for 10 feet to rap bolts. A single 60m rope rap will get you back to the ground; a 50m rope rap might come up short.
The climbing follows a horizontal dyke about 3' high and the trick is deciding when to go high -- dyke as footholds -- or low -- dyke as handholds. Another possible gotcha is rope drag so use ample runners on Genesis.
The climbing on the variation itself is one star, but in conjunction with Genesis prerequisite, Exodus makes for a three star Eldo pitch, one challenging move after another.
Protection Rack for Genesis pitch 1 and a few extra draws and/or runners.
By Joseph P. Crotty
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 13, 2006
rating: 5.11b
| Nice departure from the standard Genesis finish. Proper sling usage on the last few bolts of Genesis eases the rope drag for the crux traverse. |
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Jul 27, 2006
rating: 5.11b
| Climbed this variation yesterday evening. It was short and sweet. Fun balancey moves with barndoor potential at almost every move thru the crux. |
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