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Redgarden - S Buttress
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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: coyne & feiges 1977
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,104
Submitted By: david goldstein on Oct 25, 2003
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  • Description 

    Exodus is a worthwhile and well protected variation to the finish of pitch 1 of Genesis. From the left side of the G flake, about 10 or 15 from the anchors at the end of the pitch, head due left at a fixed pin w/ a chain link on it. Follow good bolts for about 20' to a right facing corner then up this for 10 feet to rap bolts. A single 60m rope rap will get you back to the ground; a 50m rope rap might come up short.

    The climbing follows a horizontal dyke about 3' high and the trick is deciding when to go high -- dyke as footholds -- or low -- dyke as handholds. Another possible gotcha is rope drag so use ample runners on Genesis.

    The climbing on the variation itself is one star, but in conjunction with Genesis prerequisite, Exodus makes for a three star Eldo pitch, one challenging move after another.


    Rack for Genesis pitch 1 and a few extra draws and/or runners.

    Comments on Exodus Add Comment
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    By Joseph P. Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jul 13, 2006
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

    Nice departure from the standard Genesis finish. Proper sling usage on the last few bolts of Genesis eases the rope drag for the crux traverse.

    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Jul 27, 2006
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

    Climbed this variation yesterday evening. It was short and sweet. Fun balancey moves with barndoor potential at almost every move thru the crux.