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Haji Rock
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Exit Wound S 

Exit Wound 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 160', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jared Nielson, Jason Stevens
Page Views: 4,294
Submitted By: Tosh Peters on Jun 19, 2008  with updates from drock3

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: this is the view of the tower youll get from near ...

Description 

P1: Locate a bolt line on the east side of the formation which starts up an easy arete. The arete gets steeper and eventually turns into a small tower. Two-chain belay at the top of the tower, 30m.

P2: Stem or fall across the "Gap of Flatulence" to regain the main formation. Climb up 2 or 3 bolts to a big ledge ("Camp blessing") and walk around the boulder to a two-bolt belay.

P3: Climb up a steep section (.9+) past 4 bolts to the top of Haji Rock rock and the summit register. The belay is in an awkward location but the amazing free rappel makes up for it.

Descent 

Free-hanging rappel from the summit to the top of P1, then another 30 meters to the ground.

Location 

Once you find the formation from The Pipe Dream move towards it on a trail. Cut off the trail and move up a tree-filled gully that is down-canyon from the formation.

Protection 

All bolts.


Photos of Exit Wound Slideshow Add Photo
Mcrae Williams nearing the top of the first pitch
Mcrae Williams nearing the top of the first pitch
double rap off the top of haji rock
double rap off the top of haji rock
looking down at the 1st two pitches from "camp blessing". the top of p1 is in the bottom left.
looking down at the 1st two pitches from "cam...
View from atop the first pitch
View from atop the first pitch
Hunter reading the journal left at the top in an ammo case.
Hunter reading the journal left at the top in an a...
First pitch of exit wound
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of exit wound

Comments on Exit Wound Add Comment
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By Eric Godfrey
From: slc, ut
Apr 19, 2009

Super fun multipitch, (this was my first multipitch and is a good one to start out on) great belay ledges, the step-over on the second pitch makes the route twice as cool. I'll repeat this one for sure.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yea, really fun and scenic route! Thanks FAers for all the hard work! Be carefull topping out as there is lots of loose on top. Also the firt rap has a somewhat hard pull so make it easier by pulling most of the rope from the top after the first goes down.
By Eric Godfrey
From: slc, ut
Jul 21, 2010

Done this a couple times now. Last two times I've rappelled the final drop in one rap with a 70M. It barely reaches the base with rope stretch. Even if you are a little shy of the bottom though, the final section can be easily downclimbed (tie a knot in the end still, just in case).
By CHopwood
From: Boise, ID
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is a great multi-pitch for Maple and a perfect morning outing if you are planning on climbing the Pipe Dream in the afternoon. It could really use an additional set of chains or bolts on the summit. The current ones are in a terrible location, especially since you are belaying your partners up the crux pitch. Tons of rope drag, and the sharp rocks my rope was pulling across really sketched me out.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It's funny that this route is rated off of the third pitch, which is literally 20 feet tall and coincidentally a 5.9+ (I'd actually say the moves are 5.10a ish though).

Great climb though! The first pitch is awesome. You get some great height, and some great vertical climbing on some beautiful cobblestone. The 2nd pitch is pretty interesting. Very short, and little boulder-y. Probably a little more tricky and intimidating than the first pitch to be honest!

The last pitch is burly. A real nice overhang with great holds. One of the big cobblestones you use on the first move is about to come out. Be careful! You'll notice a huge crack in it.

To reduce rope drag ontop of the last pitch, I just built my anchor, pulled out 15ft or so of slack, then clove hitched in. Then walked back over to the ledge where I had just climbed and then belayed my partner up on an ATC Guide off of a figure-8 on a bite in the rope. Worked great!

Overall, a great multipitch. Variety on every pitch and a great view at the top.