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The Grendel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Academic Freedom S 
Beowulf S 
Beyond the Pale T 
Daneland S 
Exit Stage Right S 
Leitner Route S 
Monster Mash, The S 
Mother Grendel S 
Pebble In The Sky S 
Pierced Lip Lock S 
Strong Arm Tactics S 

Exit Stage Right 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller & Lindie Brink, 2006
Page Views: 728
Submitted By: J. Broussard on Aug 1, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Doug is climbing just to the right of the 6th bolt...

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ascend a moderate face past two bolts to a ledge. Clip the third bolt (reachy) and ascend a short vertical face to a large, sloping ledge. Gain the ledge & step right to an easy left-facing corner that angles up right. Follow the corner to another ledge and the 7th bolt. Pull onto a sloping shelf & traverse left to finish.

Location 

Begin 30 feet right of Academic Freedom (which is on the Southwest face) where the wall breaks into an amphitheater of routes facing Southeast. This route begins just right of a tree and a slab that separates the two nearby faces.

Protection 

9 [7?] bolts & 2 bolt anchor.

Per J. Broussard: use the lower anchor off to your left.


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By J. Broussard
From: CordryCorner
Sep 1, 2011

BEWARE: use the lower anchor off to your left. The line continues up easy and loose rock to one more bolt and then to a SINGLE BOLTED anchor.

It's best to avoid this stretch all-together and just use the lower anchor off to your left after the third mantle.
By ErikaNW
Jun 2, 2012

Should have read Jeffeos comment prior to climbing this - instead was going off the bolt count of 9 + 2 which made us think we should keep going up the loose stuff to the right.

It should be 7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor (finish after the 3rd mantle as Jeffeos said).
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 5, 2012

It appears that one of the two anchor bolts on the right was removed, leaving a single bolt with a link or two and a bolt sleeve inches down and left of it. It is likely that the stacked blocks inspired the FAs to modify the route to finish after the 7th bolt down and left.