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 ADVANCED
Sphinx Rock
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Black Crack 
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Exit Stage Right 
Joint Venture 
Lickety Split 
Locksmith, aka Dihedral Route 
Return to Forever 
Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The 
So Honed Yet So Stoned 
Sphinx Crack 
Talus Food Crack 
Thinner 

Exit Stage Right 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Not sure.
Page Views: 450
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Apr 3, 2002
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Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the left half on Sphhinx rock. There is an obvious, big ramp heading up and to the right. This ramp has some good slab climbing. Pitch one is more of a scramble, and depending on the exact line you take, may not even have any 5th class moves. At any rate, follow the left part of the ramp up until you can move up and left just before the huge dome. Set a belay basically where the dome meets the ramp. It will be obvious from mid-ramp where you are going (a 25-30 foot left-facing dihedral capped with a roof).

Pitch two is the fun, although short part. Lie-back the hands/fists crack in the short left-facing corner for about 25-30 feet. At the top, you jump/slither into a sideways moving slot. I found it easiest to do this with a #1 cam in your hand, already attatched to the rope with a long sling. Place the cam, and slide leftwards for about 8-10 feet to the top. Set a belay and walk off easily to either side.

There is a wider 5.8 variation to pitch two that climbs a crack just left of the dihedral (Exit Stage Left). Although doing this variation avoids the fun belly-sliding moves. I gave it two stars since I thought it was just plain old fun. However, since it is fairly easy, and the good part is so short, it's best to make this a warm-up for the other good climbs in the area... Have fun!


Protection 

Standard rack, mostly hand size pieces, and a big cam for the last belay.



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By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Too bad it is so short. A good lead for [beginner] leaders.