Exiles in Babylon 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | ramsey/muff/folts 80's |
| Submitted By: | john strand on Apr 12, 2010 |
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Description A good companion to Thresher. Sustained face-y slab .
Location Just left of Thresher
Protection bolt?, a pin and some wires up top, tree anchor
| Comments on Exiles in Babylon |
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By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jan 13, 2013
| Handren places it left of Thresher. He gives the FA as Brad White and Barbara Knight, which makes sense with the name. What do you think, John, the same route you are describing? |
By john strand From: southern colo Jan 13, 2013
| I really don't remember. I know the team listed did a decent 5.10 in this area, I don't remember left or rright of Thresher, but I did the second ascent way bitd |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jan 13, 2013
| I checked Handren's guide again. He has this route as Exiles in Babylon 10a with Claude Muff, Blair Folts and Louis Dandurand '86 as the FA party. It is indeed left of Thresher (he switchrd the order of routes when he got over to this part of the slab). Knight in White Satin is to the right of Thresher |
By john strand From: southern colo Jan 14, 2013
| I had to get out a guide as well. I have not done Brad's line, but the others are worth doing when clean. Claude's line has a pin and some wires up top |
By EDGE Jan 14, 2013
| Correct; L-R it goes Exiles, Thresher, and then Knights. The first two are fun (when clean) and you can usually have them all to yourself. It would probably take an hour or two with a wire brush on a broom handle to put these back on the radar as a worthwhile side trip to escape the mobs at the North End Slabs (aka "the Practice Aid Slabs," anyone else remember calling it that? |
By jim.dangle Jan 27, 2013
| I think there still may be some confusion about this climb. Although the name and placement are correct, I don't remember this having 4 bolts. I looked at this part of the cliff in last summer (2012) and my impression of this was that it looked pretty unappealing. I think there is a bolt to pin to a thin seam as Webster and Handren also suggest. Knights in White Satin, on the other side of the Thresher, is currently buried under moss has four bolts and looks by far the better climb. But this is just from looking up. Jim |
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