Exfoliation Confrontation 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Bart Groendycke & Todd Alston, February 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Jan 5, 2005 |
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Shane on the Sharp End
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Description This is a fun and juggy route. There were a few decently protected cruxes where smaller holds had to be used, but all in all it was sinker holds. This was in sharp contrast to most of my "smearing" J-Tree experiences. It was more like climbing Southeastern sandstone!
This climb is on the right-hand portion of the Corral Wall, towards the left end of that side. Climb a dark wall with a few bolts and huge, apparent juggy holds, eventually going up and right into a light section of rock to finish at a 2 bolt anchor.
Rap to the ground with a 60 meter rope to descend.
Protection 4 bolts and a few slings on chicken heads. The lead is heady, but probably not dangerous. The runouts are on easier ground and non-threatening if you don't go tearing off holds. Maybe the grade should be weight-dependant? The rock was solid enough to be safe in my opinion.
Exfoliation Confrontation (5.9)
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1992
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"Exfoliation Confrontation" climbs up the center a...
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| Comments on Exfoliation Confrontation |
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.9+
| Good route that makes you think just off the deck. Reachy committing move to clip third bolt. Vogel guide rates this route at 9+ in my opinion any of the moves from the start past 3rd bolt is more difficult than "Hang 'em High" which is rated .10a.
Great route, makes you wish that Bart Groendycke (Megalith Clothing) & his brother Todd put up more routes in the area. |
By attila
Feb 20, 2010
| The bottom, vertical portion of the climb is fun, but there's no joy in the upper portion walk-up. I wouldn't prioritize doing this one; fine if other routes are taken. |
By Ken Lawrence
Oct 25, 2011
| Tough start. Tried to climb this one without placing any pro and had to bail. I could have climbed it if I weren't already spent. I left a loop of cord on bolt #3, so please return it to me if you grab it. On a side note, a huge tarantula walked across my belayer's feet. |
By MikeP ROWCC
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+
| Getting off the ground consisted of standing on some super polised footholds. The first couple of moves were the crux for me. The rest had some nice square edges and sidepulls that you don't get often in jtree. The top were the climbing lets off makes you pay attention if only to make sure the rock is solid. |
By KrisK82
Apr 30, 2013
| I thought the crux was definitely the first couple moves off the deck. Fun moves through the first half of the route. It felt a little run-out at times, but I think that was based primarily on the 1/4 button-heads with what appear to be Leepers. New bolts on the anchor, but with the older(Leeper?)hangers. |
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