Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Corral Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bucket Bronco T 
Czech Crack T 
Exfoliation Confrontation T 
Hang 'em High S 
High Noon T 
Onion, The TR 
Pony Express T 
Ridin' Shotgun T 

Exfoliation Confrontation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bart Groendycke & Todd Alston, February 1990
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 5, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
"Exfoliation Confrontation" climbs up th...

Description 

This is a fun and juggy route. There were a few decently protected cruxes where smaller holds had to be used, but all in all it was sinker holds. This was in sharp contrast to most of my "smearing" J-Tree experiences. It was more like climbing Southeastern sandstone!

This climb is on the right-hand portion of the Corral Wall, towards the left end of that side. Climb a dark wall with a few bolts and huge, apparent juggy holds, eventually going up and right into a light section of rock to finish at a 2 bolt anchor.

Rap to the ground with a 60 meter rope to descend.

Protection 

4 bolts and a few slings on chicken heads. The lead is heady, but probably not dangerous. The runouts are on easier ground and non-threatening if you don't go tearing off holds. Maybe the grade should be weight-dependant? The rock was solid enough to be safe in my opinion.


Photos of Exfoliation Confrontation Slideshow Add Photo
Exfoliation Confrontation (5.9)
Exfoliation Confrontation (5.9)
Shane on the Sharp End
Shane on the Sharp End
1992
1992
Hey Buddy, Leggo my Ego
Hey Buddy, Leggo my Ego

Comments on Exfoliation Confrontation Add Comment
Show which comments
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route that makes you think just off the deck. Reachy committing move to clip third bolt. Vogel guide rates this route at 9+ in my opinion any of the moves from the start past 3rd bolt is more difficult than "Hang 'em High" which is rated .10a.

Great route, makes you wish that Bart Groendycke (Megalith Clothing) & his brother Todd put up more routes in the area.
By attila
Feb 20, 2010

The bottom, vertical portion of the climb is fun, but there's no joy in the upper portion walk-up. I wouldn't prioritize doing this one; fine if other routes are taken.
By Ken Lawrence
Oct 25, 2011

Tough start. Tried to climb this one without placing any pro and had to bail. I could have climbed it if I weren't already spent. I left a loop of cord on bolt #3, so please return it to me if you grab it. On a side note, a huge tarantula walked across my belayer's feet.
By MikeP ROWCC
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Getting off the ground consisted of standing on some super polised footholds. The first couple of moves were the crux for me. The rest had some nice square edges and sidepulls that you don't get often in jtree. The top were the climbing lets off makes you pay attention if only to make sure the rock is solid.
By KrisK82
Apr 30, 2013

I thought the crux was definitely the first couple moves off the deck. Fun moves through the first half of the route. It felt a little run-out at times, but I think that was based primarily on the 1/4 button-heads with what appear to be Leepers. New bolts on the anchor, but with the older(Leeper?)hangers.