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Digging into the hand crack.
Close to the corner of the buttress and the face (the fissrue and buttress are off route, so cut out that cheating!), climb up the face on positive hands and a few small but positive feet to the bottom of the right-leaning crack. Climb up the crack to the incut ledge. Wedge yourself into the incut ledge to make the blind reach for the good jug on the rounded face above. Did you lead it? Congratulate yourself, and have a beer.
About 2/3rds of the way southward down the crag, this route is identified by an obvious right-slanting crack that starts about halfway up the slightly-overhanging face, in between a jagged-right-facing butress to the left, and another (of the several at CR) right-facing corner and roof to the right. The climb is topped by an incut ledge with a "tongue" sticking out. The top-out (seldom done) is up the rounded face above the incut ledge.
Set TR anchor using either gear in the crack at the rear of the ledge above, or from tired looking trees. Don't worry, they'll hold. The climb is very leadable, though you'll be almost halfway up before there's any gear on the face.
By ryan Pedersen
Nov 19, 2011
This can be lead with small cams and a nut or two. Be careful of the loose rock bits in the crack.
From: North Conway
May 21, 2013
I have led this. I placed 6 pieces.
By Ryan Web
Nov 16, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Led this yesterday on three pieces, and it felt really safe. Really fun but short climb.