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Calder's Route S 
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Zoo, The S 

Excessive Bail 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Glen Oross
Page Views: 1,106
Submitted By: jtwalter on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Nearing the top of Excessive Bail. (Josh Graham b...

Description 

Starts to the right of the bolts and moves left after the 2nd bolt. Rock at the bottom is solid w/small pockets and edges. The seam that runs between the 3rd and 4th bolt offers some good hand holds. Crux is getting above the 4th bolt. Milk the rest at the 4th bolt for the rest of the route. Holds have fallen from the upper section over the years and has changed the route a little.

Location 

To the left of The Zoo.

Protection 

6 bolts plus chains


Photos of Excessive Bail Slideshow Add Photo
The Zoo from the east. 2 Lightning Bolt 5.11b/c 3 ...
BETA PHOTO: The Zoo from the east. 2 Lightning Bolt 5.11b/c 3 ...
Nearing the top on excessive bail
BETA PHOTO: Nearing the top on excessive bail

Comments on Excessive Bail Add Comment
Show which comments
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Oct 11, 2007

GIVE A SPOT!
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 9, 2008

Really nice moves on great rock. The sequence is really neat to figure out.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A spotter would definitely be great as the crux seems to be right before or right after the first bolt rather than higher up. This route is very sustained with few places to take a solid rest. There are plenty of good holds, but you really have to search around for them. Pockets, to crimps, sidepulls, and the occasional gaston.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

+1 on the crux being down low, a third person to spot was very nice to have. The moves are easier past the second bolt, but still strenuous. VERY FUN.
By Canyon Copa
May 30, 2012

Thin start makes for a very relieving first clip. Really fun climb but watch out clipping the third bolt as a fall leads to a huge swing down to the right. Cool location is also a plus.
By Horace Honkenstine
Oct 3, 2012

Fantastic route. I've heard of people hand jamming in the crack and getting an amazing rest right after crossing over past the third bolt
By Tim Moore
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Very difficult start and a high committing first bolt. Someone bolted up a new line just to the left of it for an "alternate" start although both routes meet up in the middle. Towards the end gets tough especially if you don't go right which is probably off the route a little.
By kyram adsit
From: springville
Apr 25, 2014

i bolted the link up last summer. it goes at 5.11+ its called "Rainy Day at the Zoo". i tried adding the route to mountain project last summer but i guess i just wasnt smert enough. ENJOY!