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Zappa Dome
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Excentrifugal Forz 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Season: All
Page Views: 910
Submitted By: Gerry Cook on Nov 2, 2008
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Straight up to the right side of the roof.

Description 

The first bolt is high, but 5.8 leaders should have no problem reaching it. Easy start on low-angle 5.5 type holds. The route moves onto slab as the wall steepens. The route stays on nearly vertical slab climbing to the roof. The crux is probably a thin, airy move just above the roof. It continues on slab to the anchors but is less vertical.


Location 

Third route from the right on Zappa Dome


Protection 

Eight bolts. One hanger and one chain for anchors.



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By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Mar 6, 2009

fun roof move

By BenJamN
Jan 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Might be easy to 1st bolt but rock quality not quite stellar---a small tcu is useful to protect leader. A fall here would not be pretty.