|Medlicott Dome East End
The crux for me was on the 3rd pitch in a sallow left facing corner rock's a little funky for pro there, but there's a pin not to far below. Excellent slab climbing. Thanks to Greg Barnes for all the hard work on this and all the other great routes he's put up!!!!!
left of the big arch about 100' there's a splitter kinda wide crack 3" up to a ledge. that's the start. Can't miss the route from there.
Bolts/Cams. bring lot's of draws.
looking down pitch two
BETA PHOTO: Jeff heads left to the belay bolts at the end of t...
Diana heading up the 4th pitch, 5.8. For some ine...
Jeff arriving at the belay bolts end of the second...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Excellent Smithers
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 21, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
There were no pins on the 3rd pitch at July 2008. Small aliens or tcu's worked fine here. A couple medium 2-3" cams for the end of the 3rd pitch are helpful after the corner/roof. Recommend the first two pitches be combined. Rappel the route with 3 double rope raps.
|By Jeffrey Lieberman|
Jul 17, 2012
Great route that's got great pro for T-Meadows. I give it a 5.10a rating. Some beta for the 4th pitch: follow the many bolts (in a sea of orange knobs) until they seemingly run out and you can't figure out where the next one is...go way up and right and keep you eyes peeled. The first acentionists should have gone straight up to the last stance at the current belay on pitch 4 instead of wandering out to the left..just me and my partner's opinion.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
| || Photo by MP contributor Ethan Davis |
Excellent Smithers is not really a sport route. Bring gear up to 3 inches, especially small cams for the third pitch. Two 60m ropes are needed to rappel.
The route starts just a bit left of where Medlicott's east side trail meets the wall.
Pitch One (5.7, 25m): Climb the obvious, knobby, hand crack. Move left on face holds to the belay bolts and nice ledge.
Pitch Two (5.10a, 15m): Face climb past 6 bolts. Bolt belay on a foothold.
Pitch Three (5.10a, 35m): Four bolts lead up more hard face climbing to a small roof where the gear placing begins. The gear is all behind a thin flake and there is still a hard move above; not that well protected to be called a "sport pitch". After the thin flake and white roof, it is still a long way to the belay. Medium cams are useful.
Pitch Four (5.8, 60m): Nine bolts up a sea of golden knobs to the last belay.
|By Greg Barnes|
Jul 10, 2013
"The first acentionists should have gone straight up to the last stance at the current belay on pitch 4 instead of wandering out to the left..just me and my partner's opinion."
That's funny...because I did go straight up! Turns out there's a hard friction bulge that way, so I traversed left to the obvious weakness and up that (back right) to the belay ledge. Then we moved the line to where it's left-trending to get to the easy way through the bulge (and we added a bunch of bolts).
Definitely not a sport route, even by "Tuolumne sport" standards...
|By Jeffrey Lieberman|
Feb 6, 2014
Great route! I've done it twice with friends...one complained about the line on P4. Good to know about the "why" in that the route G.B. took was the best possible way considering all of the ramifications. I will let Keesee know what G.B. had to say.