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Medlicott Dome, Center
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Excellent Smithers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: G Barnes and Karin Wuhrmann
Season: summer, fall
Page Views: 3,179
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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looking down from the belay on p3, photo courtesy ...

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Description 

The crux for me was on the 3rd pitch in a sallow left facing corner rock's a little funky for pro there, but there's a pin not to far below. Excellent slab climbing. Thanks to Greg Barnes for all the hard work on this and all the other great routes he's put up!!!!!

Location 

left of the big arch about 100' there's a splitter kinda wide crack 3" up to a ledge. that's the start. Can't miss the route from there.

Protection 

Bolts/Cams. bring lot's of draws.


Photos of Excellent Smithers Slideshow Add Photo
looking down pitch two
looking down pitch two
Jeff heads left to the belay bolts at the end of t...
BETA PHOTO: Jeff heads left to the belay bolts at the end of t...
Diana heading up the 4th pitch, 5.8.  For some ine...
Diana heading up the 4th pitch, 5.8. For some ine...
Jeff arriving at the belay bolts end of the second...
Jeff arriving at the belay bolts end of the second...
The start of Excellent Smithers
BETA PHOTO: The start of Excellent Smithers

Comments on Excellent Smithers Add Comment
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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 21, 2008

There were no pins on the 3rd pitch at July 2008. Small aliens or tcu's worked fine here. A couple medium 2-3" cams for the end of the 3rd pitch are helpful after the corner/roof. Recommend the first two pitches be combined. Rappel the route with 3 double rope raps.
By Jeffrey Lieberman
Jul 17, 2012

Great route that's got great pro for T-Meadows. I give it a 5.10a rating. Some beta for the 4th pitch: follow the many bolts (in a sea of orange knobs) until they seemingly run out and you can't figure out where the next one is...go way up and right and keep you eyes peeled. The first acentionists should have gone straight up to the last stance at the current belay on pitch 4 instead of wandering out to the left..just me and my partner's opinion.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Photo by MP contributor Ethan Davis
Photo by MP contributor Ethan Davis


Excellent Smithers is not really a sport route. Bring gear up to 3 inches, especially small cams for the third pitch. Two 60m ropes are needed to rappel.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION
The route starts just a bit left of where Medlicott's east side trail meets the wall.

Pitch One (5.7, 25m): Climb the obvious, knobby, hand crack. Move left on face holds to the belay bolts and nice ledge.

Pitch Two (5.10a, 15m): Face climb past 6 bolts. Bolt belay on a foothold.

Pitch Three (5.10a, 35m): Four bolts lead up more hard face climbing to a small roof where the gear placing begins. The gear is all behind a thin flake and there is still a hard move above; not that well protected to be called a "sport pitch". After the thin flake and white roof, it is still a long way to the belay. Medium cams are useful.

Pitch Four (5.8, 60m): Nine bolts up a sea of golden knobs to the last belay.
By Greg Barnes
Jul 10, 2013

"The first acentionists should have gone straight up to the last stance at the current belay on pitch 4 instead of wandering out to the left..just me and my partner's opinion."

That's funny...because I did go straight up! Turns out there's a hard friction bulge that way, so I traversed left to the obvious weakness and up that (back right) to the belay ledge. Then we moved the line to where it's left-trending to get to the easy way through the bulge (and we added a bunch of bolts).

Definitely not a sport route, even by "Tuolumne sport" standards...
By Jeffrey Lieberman
Feb 6, 2014

Great route! I've done it twice with friends...one complained about the line on P4. Good to know about the "why" in that the route G.B. took was the best possible way considering all of the ramifications. I will let Keesee know what G.B. had to say.