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The Amphitheater
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Excellent Adventure 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Parkinson, Cobb - 1994
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jul 5, 2009
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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on a small ledge above the trail; move left on the ledge to a crack. Climb the crack and trend up and left to a roof, passing it on the left end. Continue trending left to a final roof/bulge; surmount this roof on its left end, where you'll find yourself on a spacious ledge. Move right to rap webbing on a tree.


Location 

Starts about 10' left of the Wailing Wall corner. Rap from a tree with webbing and rings/biners.


Protection 

Small to medium cams and passive pro; tricams are useful.



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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 6, 2009

Maybe I'm just spoiled by the other great routes in the Amphitheatre, but I found this one fairly uninspiring. Also, it seemed soft for 5.7. The description in the old Kelley guide doesn't seem to match the accompanying topo, and the actual climbing has only the vaguest relation to either the description or the topo. Though the Kelley guide doesn't say one way or the other, it doesn't look like you'd really want to top out on this route; the climbing above the rap station looks unappealing.

By Ernest W
Aug 9, 2010

Agree this feels soft for 5.7, more like 5.5 at least the way we went. Obviously doesn't get much traffic.

By GWB
May 7, 2012

I did this route late last week and started more to the left than the description (directly under the crack). It was more like 5.7 but that was only the bottom section and not very well protected. It was pretty good and worth at least checking out if the area is crowded on a summer weekend. There is a bit of lichen on the route now but the rap station is well equipped now with 2 steels and a rap ring.

By Noah.J
From: Carrboro, NC
Sep 28, 2013

Rap stations are manky, but you can easily top this out in a single pitch and use one of the bomber fixed cable raps into the amphitheater.