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Beacon Rock
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L to R R to L Alpha
3rd Rail, The 
Bears in Heat 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears 
Dorian's Dilemma 
Fear of Flying 
Flying Dutchman 
Flying Swallow 
Free for All 
Free For All, Direct 
Free for Some 
Fresh Squeeze 
Gitmo Love Machine 
Head Case 
Jill's Thrill 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack 
Little Wing 
Lost Warriors 
Norseman, The 
Old Warriors Never Die 
Rise Up 
Siege Tactics 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) 
South East Corner 
Stone Rodeo 
Wild Turkeys 
Winter Delight 
Young Warriors 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tim Olson
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Sep 30, 2007
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Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>


Excalibur begins on top of the Beacon Towers, which are just to the left of Blownout. There are many ways to reach the belay spot on the Towers, but Wild Turkeys is probably the best approach at 5.10C. Excalibur is a demanding lead, with both powerful and delicate sections, and, since it is rarely done, requires a good head and the ability to find not so visible holds. The crux comes high on the route and involves a very thin seem and crimps to gain a wide section in the crack. Even though it is seldom done Excalibur is a very good climb on solid rock.


Bolts and pitons protect roughly the first 3/4 of the climb, but not necessarily the hardest climbing. Small nuts and cams (between 0-5 metolious) protect the rest.

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By peachy spohn
Aug 4, 2013

Cleaned up and ready for 2013 action!