Excalibur  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 340 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Brian Komen, Mark Thomas 1990 Submitted By:  DisturbingThePeace on Aug 25, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A Fun 3 pitch climb, the second pitch of which is great.

Pitch 1: 5.10a ~100 ft PG13
Face climb off the ground on jugs to a straight in obtuse dihedral. Place some small pro to a piton and head left. 5.9+, (I thought this was the crux). Continue up with sparce gear to a low-angle groove with a 5.10a slabby crux.

Pitch 2. 5.10d ~140 ft
A great exciting pitch
Face climb up from the belay to the bolt, can sling a flake and get a small nut. Clip the bolt at the crux and pull 5.10b moves to a nice stance under a roof. Head left (tricky) to the main left facing dihedral. Head up placing small pro to another roof. 5.10d crux, Lie back around this and head up to easier ground. Run the victory lap to a nice belay 40 ft higher. Good gear and optional bolt on Seventh Sojourn. Belay takes .75 - 1 camelot's.

Pitch 3 5.10a or 5.9 100ft
5.10a variation, head left clip a bolt and make a few moves of 5.10a

5.9 Head straight and right and head up a chimney, can angle right for more climbing.

Location 

After the rappels you will be at the base of Seventh Sojourn, head uphill about 20-30 ft, and look for a piton in a obtuse dihedral.

Protection 

Nuts + 2X Camelots .3 to #2, 1X #3, or equivalent. Some smaller C3's came in handy. Could also place some small slider nuts if desired.