Excalibur  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Richard Rossiter and Joan Johns, 09/05 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Richard Rossiter on Sep 21, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Second pitch of Excalibur. Climb a steep corner an...

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Description 

Details: The sword in the stone. You have to use your imagination. Something cleved that beautiful dihedral and the strange split pyramid at its base. This route ascends the very steep dihedral in the crag above the parking shoulder across from Avalon. The wall faces southeast and gets nice morning sunlight. You could literally belay from your car (if you wanted to).

P1: Begin from the road directly beneath the big open book of the second pitch. Climb past 2 bolts and belay from a 2-bolt anchor on a sloping ledge (5.11b).

An easier start begins well to the right of the dihedral. Climb stepped rock past two bolts, then traverse left along a sloping ledge to a 2-bolt belay anchor near the bottom of the dihedral (5.6).

P2: Climb the slightly overhanging dihedral past 6 bolts and lower off from a 2-bolt ring anchor at the top. You can lower all the way to the road and still have plenty of rope to belay and lower your partner. Total height from the road is 80 feet.

Protection 

Pitch 1: 2 bolts only to a 2-bolt anchor with lap links.

Pitch 2: 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. You can lower all the way to road.

Photos of Excalibur Slideshow

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Bruno stemmed out at the crux.	BETA PHOTO: Excalibur Direct Start. Climb a steep wall past t...	Greg finishing the direct start.
Bob cruising up the second pitch of Excalibur.	Photo by Joan Johns of Bruno Heche, Ray Snead, R....