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The Mongoose
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Excalibur abbreviated T 

Excalibur abbreviated 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 115', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2 [details]
FA: Harvey T. Carter et al.,1971
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: -mn on Feb 5, 2008

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Description 

The original route on the Mongoose is called Excalibur and starts on the downhill (N.E.)side of the tower and faces the creek.That route is five pitches long and climbs the longest possible line on the formation.
The route described here is the abbreviated version of Excalibur and sneaks up the backside of the tower and climbs the last two pitches.Not sure if the pitch coming out of the saddle next to Sari is part of the original route.Faces South, Southeast.

Pitch 1 - Gain the saddle between Sari and Mongoose (above the windows).Traverse left around to the west side about 15-20 ft.Follow a shallow left facing corner which angles up and right.Belay at a big boulder-sling it or stuff cams up underneath it.The vertical gain on this pitch is only about 20' but you end up climbing more like 50' with the traversing.

Pitch 2 - Stand on the boulder and make a series of hook moves up and left.Yard through the short bolt ladder to a thin crack that widens to hands at the top.The start of this pitch is runout but there is a really thin pin scar where something might fit - 0 offset nut? 80'

Rappel - Rap 100' to the saddle then downclimb 15' or so, or take two ropes.

Protection 

stoppers,1 set of cams from tiny to a #4 camalot (optional),selection of hooks,small tricams,an extra finger size piece might come in handy...yellow alien


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