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Unsorted Routes:

Exacerbator 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: m. rangel, m. knarzer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 470
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Jul 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Tim H. on the onsight of Exacerbator, Isolation Ca...

Description 

Mount the wide blocky chimney at the left side of the roof area. The crack becomes fingers through a small roof then incut ledges on easy rock. Continue directly above on the ever disappearing thin crack to the notch. This final difficulty is the crux, very thin pro to a great ledge, go left from the ledge to the anchor. Double rope rappel to the ledge.

Location 

Walk south on the ledge trail to the huge roof 100yds from the end of the wall just before you get to Duckie Butt Rub.

Protection 

Microlight nuts (double on smalls), small nuts, med nuts, double 00 C3 to #2 camalots, single #3 camalot. Several runners, many draws for this long pitch.


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By Tim H.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 8, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Haven't been over to this side much. Is it possible to get down with a 70m? Maybe with some shenanigan's(ex. getting to another climbs anchor, down climbing easy terrain, etc.)?
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Mar 9, 2016

I can't recall any other anchors nearby. I think a tag line would help. I'd be interested to find out if a 70m would work which would change the length of the route. I thought it was close to 150' tall.
By Tim H.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 14, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route! Reminded me a bit of the Elephant Trunk pitch on Epinephrine. Although, slightly dirty since I don't think it sees many ascents.

Mostly 5.8 climbing with what I thought was a 5.10 crux. I could definitely see it feeling harder since the crux pro was thin. I nested a bomber .2 X4 and a #2 DMM Peanut about 10' above the piton. Crux is over in about 12' and you get a great #1 C4.

Even if it was 5.10, I wouldn't put a leader that isn't pretty good at finding tricky and not so obvious placements on this. I was able to find gear every 10-12' without any trouble, but it's certainly not a route where you've got something the whole way(which I felt added to the appeal and feel to the route).

The anchor was tat and quick links- so I cut that away and left 2 biners. Couldn't get the quicklinks open so I left them on the ledge for the next person. Hopefully they can get them open, put them on the bolts and clip the biners to them so they are in the correct orientation.

Onsight gear: 1x nuts(tiny to medium) | 2x .1-2 | 8 quick-draws/ 4 alpine-draws

Length is ~150' so you really can't get off with 1 rope. MAYBE you could rap to the top of the tower on the climbers left and downclimb the chimney...

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