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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,167
Submitted By: Nathan Hollingsworth on Oct 12, 2007
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Eric Sjoden belayed by Mike Bankoff on Ewtopia.


This route has a hard start, some cool roof moves and then the business begins.


This is near the top of the trail, to the right a little of Jewel of the Wild.


9 bolts.

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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Nov 23, 2008

Great route, steeper than your normal Shelf route. The start is the crux with some 11+ish moves up higher.

By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Stellar route and in the shade from the morning till mid-late afternoon. There is a low crux between the 1st to 3rd bolts, then fun juggy climbing up till two other distinct cruxes. All around an excellent route and a new personal favorite at Shelf.

By Andy McAdams
Sep 25, 2011

This was a good route, and my personal opinion is this is a good route to break into 12s. The crux is definitely the start. The third bolt should not be clipped from the semi-slopey left hand, but it is safer to climb another one or two moves up toward the rest and then clip because less rope will be out for clipping and the holds are stellar.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2013

Be thoroughly warmed up as the crux start requires you to pull hard. Comparable to its neighbor, Jewel of the Wild, maybe not as much pump though. I thought that it the start was pretty bouldery too compared to some other 12a's at Shelf. The top is a bit chossy but still cool finishing moves. Definitely worth getting on!