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The Sheepshead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absinthe of Mallet 
Barnyard Wall 1 
Barnyard Wall 2 
Climb Too Tough To Die, The 
Ewephoria 
Get The Flock Out Of Here 
Great second pitch. 
Greedy Little Varmint 
Ides of Middlemarch 
Mad Cow Disease 
Peacemaker, The 
Stampede 
Tombstone Stripper, The 
Unknown (begins 50' left of The Climb Too Tough to Die) 
Unknown (corner 15' left of Peacemaker) 
Unknown (right of stampede) 
Unknown (Right of The Peacemaker) 

Ewephoria 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 750'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 25,570
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 18, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Composite shot of most of Ewephoria from Muttonhea...

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Description 

Ewephoria is a great, mostly bolted route up the North side of the dome. Though not as classic as Absinthe of Mallet, its shorter length, many bolts, and easier rating make The Sheepshead more accessible. Don't bother with the standard last pitch chimney. Instead, finish on the last pitch of Too Tough To Die, which goes at 5.9 (more like 5.8) and is much more fun and exposed.


Protection 

The first pitch is trad and takes pro to 2". The second pitch is mostly bolted, but pros with a couple of small to medium pieces in the crack. All other pitches are bolted. However, a couple of large hexes & nuts slotted between plates will help tame the runout on easier terrain on pitches 4 & 5. All belays are bolted.


Location 

Take the approach trail to where it meets the dome at Absinthe of Mallet. Follow a trail left, contouring around the dome and working up until reaching the 1st pitch ramp/dihedral (see picture). Note that you can't see the 1st belay bolts from the ground. Follow the dihedral until a bolt leads out left to a bolted belay. The second pitch continues left past a bolt to a crack. Follow the crack up to a few more bolts which lead to a belay, then follow the bolt line all the way to the large ledge atop the 4th pitch. The regular route then follows the large chimney up to the top, or follow the bolts on Too Tough To Die for a much better finish. To descend follow cairns down and left to the obvious gully on the North side, then follow the trail back to the start.



Photos of Ewephoria Slideshow Add Photo
A shot of Ewephoria's second pitch from Muttonhead Dome.  Photo by Leila.
A shot of Ewephoria's second pitch from Muttonhead...
The AZ sunsets never get old. Even if you still have a pitch to go with no headlamp!
The AZ sunsets never get old. Even if you still ha...
The start of the stellar second pitch
BETA PHOTO: The start of the stellar second pitch
Ashley right below a bit of piece of mind Phillip left for her.  Pitch 3 runout.
Ashley right below a bit of piece of mind Phillip ...
Ewe wouldn't think ewe would run into a solo climber at the third belay of Ewephoria.  After giving us some beta, she allowed us to pass through.
Ewe wouldn't think ewe would run into a solo climb...
Just before the bolts stop and the run out begins on some awesome alligator plates.
Just before the bolts stop and the run out begins ...
Finishing P4
Finishing P4
High on the third pitch
High on the third pitch
Looking down at the fun 3rd pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the fun 3rd pitch
High up the 1st pitch of Ewephoria.
High up the 1st pitch of Ewephoria.
Tauru leading pitch four on an awesome January day, 2007
Tauru leading pitch four on an awesome January day...
Top of Ewephoria from Muttonhead
BETA PHOTO: Top of Ewephoria from Muttonhead
Ewephoria was coated with ice and snow too...
Ewephoria was coated with ice and snow too...
Pitch 4 of Ewephoria
Pitch 4 of Ewephoria
What are EWE doing up here?
What are EWE doing up here?
From near the top of sheepshead, looking down at pitch4.  climbers are at the top of p3.
From near the top of sheepshead, looking down at p...
Jon exiting the crack on the first pitch
Jon exiting the crack on the first pitch
before making the balance-y move onto the ledge, p5 (too tough to die finish)
before making the balance-y move onto the ledge, p...
Climbers on the 3rd pitch.
Climbers on the 3rd pitch.
The start of Ewephoria
BETA PHOTO: The start of Ewephoria
This is from the summit register describing the standard chimney finish of Ewephoria.  Pretty funny.  We didn't get to experience it, pretty happy about that.
This is from the summit register describing the st...
Looking up at the water stain slab climbing on pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the water stain slab climbing on pit...
3rd Pitch of Ewephoria... My slab pitch!
BETA PHOTO: 3rd Pitch of Ewephoria... My slab pitch!
Easy chickenhead hiking on the top of pitch 3 of Ewephoria
Easy chickenhead hiking on the top of pitch 3 of E...
Looking up at more fun run-out climbing on P4
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at more fun run-out climbing on P4
Ewe STILL here?
Ewe STILL here?
Chickenhead field on Ewephoria
BETA PHOTO: Chickenhead field on Ewephoria
Beanfest hanging out on the 2nd to last belay with climbers spread out above and below....so there you have it.
Beanfest hanging out on the 2nd to last belay with...
The Too Tough to Die finish
The Too Tough to Die finish
Angelina & Christi amid a sea of chickenheads & lichen on The Sheepshead in Cochise Stronghold.
Angelina & Christi amid a sea of chickenheads & li...
Daryl getting ready for the crux move on TTTD/Ewephoria on the fifth and final pitch.
Daryl getting ready for the crux move on TTTD/Ewep...
Climber on top of first pitch on Ewephoria.
BETA PHOTO: Climber on top of first pitch on Ewephoria.
Thaddeus Portz right below the last bolt on P4.
Thaddeus Portz right below the last bolt on P4.
This Pitch is an awesome way to finish this route!
This Pitch is an awesome way to finish this route!
Surfing the stone of the beautiful Ewephoria, Cochise Stronghold, Arizona.
Surfing the stone of the beautiful Ewephoria, Coch...
Sending Smiles!!!
Sending Smiles!!!
Moving up pitch 3
Moving up pitch 3
This is Ryan on the 5th pitch of Ewephoria/Too Tough To Die
This is Ryan on the 5th pitch of Ewephoria/Too Tou...
Climbing up the fifth pitch The Climb to Tough Too Die
Climbing up the fifth pitch The Climb to Tough Too...
We finally made it to the top! Of pitch one
We finally made it to the top! Of pitch one
From the belay it is hard to see that there is a good section of slab at the top. Where I am is the starting of the slab.
From the belay it is hard to see that there is a g...
Mike Leonard on the last pitch variation on Too Tough To Die.
Mike Leonard on the last pitch variation on Too To...
The chimney isn't that bad if you want to skip the TTTD finish.  There are bolts on the left side that avoid most of the chimney (about 5.8) - we then stepped into the very top part of the chimney which takes you to the summit quickly.
The chimney isn't that bad if you want to skip the...
Comments on Ewephoria Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 21, 2014
By Hampton Uzzelle
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 22, 2007

I think Christian is turned around. Ewephoria is on the north face of Sheepshead and starts in the large descent gully between Sheepshead and Muttonhead.

By David C. Burke
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 7, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The easiest way to find this climb is to think of the Sheepshead as a clock, the face visible from the parking area with Absinthe, Peacemaker and Ides is roughly 6 o'clock. Ewephoria is at about 9 o'clock.

By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Apr 15, 2007

I've done this a couple times, and each time I am surprised at how slippery and technical I find the first pitch. After the first trad pitch, it's a relative cruise (except for one move off a ledge with a bolt that won't protect your ankles). Good clean fun, and the wild alternate finish is definitely recommended. The chimney is easier, but half scrambling and half chimney. It does have some bolts near the top of the chimney if you stay out of the back.

If you're not completely sure where the route starts, you can hike a little more up the trail and see the anchors from the side.

By phil broscovak
Apr 18, 2007

This a really fun and satisfying climb. I like that it 'summits' and that it has a lot of nice variation. That said, this is a sand bag rated at 5.7 and if you believe the 1st pitch is 5.5 then I'd like to talk to you about a land deal. I would excercise caution when recomending this 1st pitch to less experienced trad leaders. Now having said that I would still give this climb a bunch of stars and highly recommend it to anyone ready for it. The last pitch up the final head wall though harder and short is still a real grin fest.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The first pitch of this climb protects well but is harder than 5.7. The route starts up a gully thats mostly in the shade so the slab can be wet a long time after rain.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Haven't led the first pitch yet but on parts of it the rock is very water-polished, which adds to the difficulty. I'd guess at least solid 5.8 on lead.

By Matt Walker
Nov 25, 2007

i climbed this a few days ago and on the last pitch we climbed a bolted line that started at the base of the chimney and went up and left - clipping the last slab bolt on the Too tough to die variation. anyone else done this ending - i was curious about a consensus on the rating?

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 1, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Hey Matt,

I asked Geir Hundal today and he said about 5.8.

www.geir.com/ewephoria.pdf

Hope you're enjoying Tucson.

Cheers

By Karl Kiser
Mar 31, 2008

I would simply rate the climb 5.8 and recommend it. The first pitch is old awkward 5.8. The variation last pitch to the left and above the anchor is quite fun.

By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Nov 11, 2008

If you know how to lie-back the first pitch is probably no harder than 5.6 or 5.7. If you can't do lie-back probably want someone else to lead or you're going to grunt up it. Bring lots of small to medium cams for pitch one and you won't have any problem with protecting this pitch. Be sure to climb to the chicken heads above the dike before stepping across to the face. Makes the step across onto the face easier and allows better protection in the crack.

By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 18, 2008

There is a new route to the left of Ewephoria (name is unknown). If you keep heading to the climber's left on the second pitch it is possible to continue following the bolts to the other route (over a small runout). To stay on Ewephoria angle straight up the rock from the 4th bolt and the belay station will be at the water stain. If you end up on this other route it is probably a 5.10 mixed and if you had trouble leading pitch one you are in for a difficult climb. Personally, I found the first pitch of Ewephoria to be just fine and I could not figure out what all the hype is about.

By Boodge Nomchompski
Jan 3, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Geir - thanks for the spectacular topo!

Very good intro to multi-pitching. First pitch is significantly harder than the rest of the pitches - I'd probably say 5.8+. All of the run-outs are on 5.4ish terrain. TTTD finish is definitely a GREAT way to finish, with excellent exposure!

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jan 3, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I actually think the crux of this climb is at a bolt on the third pitch just when it gets near vertical.

By Brian Boyd
Administrator
Feb 16, 2009

The beta photo of the first pitch is worth bringing along: We spent awhile looking around before deciding the the bushy gully was the actual start. In fairness, the snow piled up at the base and lack of footprints didn't help us much either.

My gear list: 1 ea, blue TCU, .5 and .75 camalot, 2.5 friend, 2 ea 1 and 2 camalot, 2 pink tricams. There were many opportunities for additional placements if needed. The moves on P1 aren't hard, but they aren't terribly obvious either.

The 5.9 finish is an excellent option. Very airy as you pass the bulge and top out on the arete.

By David K
Feb 28, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Definitely not a 5.7. I fell on the 4th pitch and I lead 10s on Lemmon.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A new topo with this climb can be downloaded by clicking the link below:

toofasttopos.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6

Enjoy!

By Tradster
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 12, 2009

Pitch 1 seems about 5.7+ or 5.8 and pros very well. A bit awkward, but not bad at all. The crux seems to me getting over the bulge on P 3, however, the final 'chimney' pitch seems awkward, to say the least. Finish the 'Too Tough to Die' exit. We did it in about 4 hours as we had to wait on another party ahead of us. Can easily be done in three hours or a bit less.

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Nov 16, 2009

Definetly a good route - bring your slab climbing shoes.. Pitch one was the hardest... Pitch three was interesting - kind of run out above the bulge...imho and pitch four was the easiest...
Good Route, great new climbing friends, and awesome day!

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Thank you, Geir, for another awesome topo! Sweet intro to Cochise for me -- soloed it with no hitches and lots of fun in well under 3 hrs.

The last airy move is definitely tricky for the follower (Did it both ways, obviously) -- watched 2 parties struggle with this because of poor communication. The follower has to have enough slack to flick the rope around the arete and move left.

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Jan 2, 2010

I really liked this climb. A trad first pitch, (slippery) then the nature of the climb gets sporty. I thought the crux move was on the 4th pitch. If you top it off with the "too tough to die finish" you have a classic. highly recommended.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 11, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

great climb! a few pictures of the final arete pitch: picasaweb.google.com/tyler.williams/CochiseStrongholdSheepsh>>>

By Dwook
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Ah man did this sweet route on April 19th 2010...I thought the first pitch was definitely 5.8+ maybe easy 5.9...Do not try and go left into the small chimney...hahaha I did that and realized it was not indeed not easier so I had to down climb. Of course I was leading it with a bunch of gear on and only a year and a half experience trad leading. The pro is kinda sketch around half way up before leading to some bomber placements...Currently there is a fixed nut around 3/4 of the way up someone left...I thought the second pitch was 5.7- very easy. 3rd pitch was 5.8 with a moderate run out. 4th pitch was two hard 5.8 moves with solid bolts and you are very tempted to cheat using the bolts, just trust that the move is there!!! pitch 5 is super awesome and exposed. Cheers to the setter on this one. leave your extras in the car just take what you need for the wall the hike isn't that bad...

By Dwook
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Uhhh.....nah I think im gonna keep it secret thanks...?

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 27, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

That anchor has two bolts.

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Here's one of them:

What are EWE doing up here?
What are EWE doing up here?

By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 8, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

WARNING...!!!!!!!!

There is a bad bolt on the "Too Tough To Die" finish just before the traverse. I didn't notice it, but my second said it was spinning in its hole...

By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 8, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

A 50 meter rope is just right for this one...

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Dec 7, 2012

For this gunks climber (in other words...very slab inexperienced), I found this climb somewhat more difficult than 5.7. We finished on A climb to tough to die...nice and exposed.

By Sun2Stone
From: Phoenix,AZ
Dec 10, 2012

climbed Dec 2, bent bolt able to clip,
Looking for the photographer who got the great shots,
Sun2stone@cox.net

By Brandon Baldwin
From: Sahuarita, AZ
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I realy enjoyed this climb, it was my first multipitch climb and it beat me up physically. Since most of it is bolted I only brought a couple sets of nuts and a set of hexes. If I do it again I will only take one set of nuts and a couple hexes. We got off route on the second pitch and went to the anchors on "Get The Flock Out Of Here" but we were able to get back on route fairly easily following a ramp up to the right. My second couldn't make it up the TTTD finish so I got to climb that finish, rap down and lead the original Ewephoria finish. I enjoyed both finishes. I felt the slab sections were the hardest, but I am not very good on slab.

By Ben Lock
From: Cedar City, UT
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Excellent climb, yes first pitch is quite slippery, I think crux is through some technical slab that is not super protected on fourth pitch. Heads up. 8+