Ewephoria 

Bolt hanger has been replaced by parties unknown.

There's a typo in the description; it goes up the south side of Sheepshead. (towards the far west end of the south face)

I think Christian is turned around. Ewephoria is on the north face of Sheepshead and starts in the large descent gully between Sheepshead and Muttonhead.

Sorry I was under the impression the main face of Sheepshead (where Absinthe and Ides are) faced directly south, but I guess it's more southwest, which I guess would make the gully where Ewephoria starts northwest facing..

The easiest way to find this climb is to think of the Sheepshead as a clock, the face visible from the parking area with Absinthe, Peacemaker and Ides is roughly 6 o'clock. Ewephoria is at about 9 o'clock.

I've done this a couple times, and each time I am surprised at how slippery and technical I find the first pitch. After the first trad pitch, it's a relative cruise (except for one move off a ledge with a bolt that won't protect your ankles). Good clean fun, and the wild alternate finish is definitely recommended. The chimney is easier, but half scrambling and half chimney. It does have some bolts near the top of the chimney if you stay out of the back.

If you're not completely sure where the route starts, you can hike a little more up the trail and see the anchors from the side.

This a really fun and satisfying climb. I like that it 'summits' and that it has a lot of nice variation. That said, this is a sand bag rated at 5.7 and if you believe the 1st pitch is 5.5 then I'd like to talk to you about a land deal. I would excercise caution when recomending this 1st pitch to less experienced trad leaders. Now having said that I would still give this climb a bunch of stars and highly recommend it to anyone ready for it. The last pitch up the final head wall though harder and short is still a real grin fest.

The first pitch of this climb protects well but is harder than 5.7. The route starts up a gully thats mostly in the shade so the slab can be wet a long time after rain.

Haven't led the first pitch yet but on parts of it the rock is very water-polished, which adds to the difficulty. I'd guess at least solid 5.8 on lead.

i climbed this a few days ago and on the last pitch we climbed a bolted line that started at the base of the chimney and went up and left - clipping the last slab bolt on the Too tough to die variation. anyone else done this ending - i was curious about a consensus on the rating?

Hey Matt,

I asked Geir Hundal today and he said about 5.8.

www.geir.com/ewephoria.pdf

Hope you're enjoying Tucson.

Cheers

I would simply rate the climb 5.8 and recommend it. The first pitch is old awkward 5.8. The variation last pitch to the left and above the anchor is quite fun.

If you know how to lie-back the first pitch is probably no harder than 5.6 or 5.7. If you can't do lie-back probably want someone else to lead or you're going to grunt up it. Bring lots of small to medium cams for pitch one and you won't have any problem with protecting this pitch. Be sure to climb to the chicken heads above the dike before stepping across to the face. Makes the step across onto the face easier and allows better protection in the crack.

There is a new route to the left of Ewephoria (name is unknown). If you keep heading to the climber's left on the second pitch it is possible to continue following the bolts to the other route (over a small runout). To stay on Ewephoria angle straight up the rock from the 4th bolt and the belay station will be at the water stain. If you end up on this other route it is probably a 5.10 mixed and if you had trouble leading pitch one you are in for a difficult climb. Personally, I found the first pitch of Ewephoria to be just fine and I could not figure out what all the hype is about.

Geir - thanks for the spectacular topo!

Very good intro to multi-pitching. First pitch is significantly harder than the rest of the pitches - I'd probably say 5.8+. All of the run-outs are on 5.4ish terrain. TTTD finish is definitely a GREAT way to finish, with excellent exposure!

I actually think the crux of this climb is at a bolt on the third pitch just when it gets near vertical.

The beta photo of the first pitch is worth bringing along: We spent awhile looking around before deciding the the bushy gully was the actual start. In fairness, the snow piled up at the base and lack of footprints didn't help us much either.

My gear list: 1 ea, blue TCU, .5 and .75 camalot, 2.5 friend, 2 ea 1 and 2 camalot, 2 pink tricams. There were many opportunities for additional placements if needed. The moves on P1 aren't hard, but they aren't terribly obvious either.

The 5.9 finish is an excellent option. Very airy as you pass the bulge and top out on the arete.

Definitely not a 5.7. I fell on the 4th pitch and I lead 10s on Lemmon.

A new topo with this climb can be downloaded by clicking the link below:

www.geir.com/sheepshead%20w.pdf

Enjoy!

Pitch 1 seems about 5.7+ or 5.8 and pros very well. A bit awkward, but not bad at all. The crux seems to me getting over the bulge on P 3, however, the final 'chimney' pitch seems awkward, to say the least. Finish the 'Too Tough to Die' exit. We did it in about 4 hours as we had to wait on another party ahead of us. Can easily be done in three hours or a bit less.

Definetly a good route - bring your slab climbing shoes.. Pitch one was the hardest... Pitch three was interesting - kind of run out above the bulge...imho and pitch four was the easiest...
Good Route, great new climbing friends, and awesome day!

Thank you, Geir, for another awesome topo! Sweet intro to Cochise for me -- soloed it with no hitches and lots of fun in well under 3 hrs.

The last airy move is definitely tricky for the follower (Did it both ways, obviously) -- watched 2 parties struggle with this because of poor communication. The follower has to have enough slack to flick the rope around the arete and move left.

I really liked this climb. A trad first pitch, (slippery) then the nature of the climb gets sporty. I thought the crux move was on the 4th pitch. If you top it off with the "too tough to die finish" you have a classic. highly recommended.

great climb! a few pictures of the final arete pitch: picasaweb.google.com/tyler.williams/CochiseStrongholdSheepsh>>>

Ah man did this sweet route on April 19th 2010...I thought the first pitch was definitely 5.8+ maybe easy 5.9...Do not try and go left into the small chimney...hahaha I did that and realized it was not indeed not easier so I had to down climb. Of course I was leading it with a bunch of gear on and only a year and a half experience trad leading. The pro is kinda sketch around half way up before leading to some bomber placements...Currently there is a fixed nut around 3/4 of the way up someone left...I thought the second pitch was 5.7- very easy. 3rd pitch was 5.8 with a moderate run out. 4th pitch was two hard 5.8 moves with solid bolts and you are very tempted to cheat using the bolts, just trust that the move is there!!! pitch 5 is super awesome and exposed. Cheers to the setter on this one. leave your extras in the car just take what you need for the wall the hike isn't that bad...

Uhhh.....nah I think im gonna keep it secret thanks...?

Quick question, is it necessary to tie off chickenheads for a belay in the chickenhead field or is it bolted?

That anchor has two bolts.

Here's one of them:

What are EWE doing up here? Submitted By: ascender30 on Feb 19, 2011

WARNING...!!!!!!!!

There is a bad bolt on the "Too Tough To Die" finish just before the traverse. I didn't notice it, but my second said it was spinning in its hole...

A 50 meter rope is just right for this one...

For this gunks climber (in other words...very slab inexperienced), I found this climb somewhat more difficult than 5.7. We finished on A climb to tough to die...nice and exposed.

climbed Dec 2, bent bolt able to clip,
Looking for the photographer who got the great shots,
Sun2stone@cox.net