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Evolution Revolution 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson and Ken Trout
Page Views: 1,468
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 26, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Evolution Revolution climbs up to and over the imposing roof to the left of 'Global Gorilla.' A couple of 5.11 slab cruxes down low will keep your mind occupied and will keep you from constantly staring at the roof above. A no hands rest half way up allows a full recovery before heading up the final slab to the base of the roof. It's steeper than it looks! After a few strenuous moves and a tough clip, pull over the roof and you're home-free!


Protection 

Quickdraws for 9 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.



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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 16, 2003

This route is excellent!! Stays dry in a downpour. Long runner on the bolt before the roof to reduce drag. My book suggests gear, but with 9 bolts, you dont need it. Perfect stone.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 16, 2003

This route is excellent!! Stays dry in a downpour. Long runner on the bolt before the roof to reduce drag. My book suggests gear, but with 9 bolts, you dont need it. Perfect stone. A good start is with the first 2 clips of Global Gorilla and straight up to the second bolt of ER.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 26, 2003

ER felt really burly in the roof. Stacking up under the roof leaves you with two, perhaps three at the most, hand transitions leading to the corner of the roof where terrific jug awaits. It seemed as though the hardest thing was to stabilize the barn-door when standing up under the roof. Can't ask for better pro - gives you a top rope through most of the crux. The run up to the anchors after turning the roof was on jugs. The opening 5.11 was more awkward than it looked to be from the ground; just thrutch through the corner. Two stars probably fits.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 27, 2003

ER is a subvertical slab that climbs up to a no hands rest that is followed by a short, burly sequence to the corner of a roof, after which it calms down completely. One and one half stars is probably reasonable given the proximity of GG and Hands. However, I wouldn't call it a great route; I'd call it a good route.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 25, 2003

From the top of ER, there is a dihedral that goes up and left (5.7-5.8?) that gets you to the top of H of D. Bring a few pieces (large nuts, TCUs). From here, you can either TR Hands or lead the upper 10a headwall (5 bolts). Fun section of face with black knobs and slopey edges and dishes. Kinda dirty still... If you really want, you can set a TR on Animal Instinct and Sun Dog while youre at it. fun stuff.

Caution: the following is some beta regarding ER, the second clip in the roof is not that bad if you stem way out right, and have the lip-fingerlock with your right hand.

By Joe Collins
May 27, 2004

The slab, as well as the start, are much trickier than they look. I think the roof overhead gives the illusion that this section isn't very steep. 12b/c seems about right... we thought it was harder than the crux of Global Gorilla.

By Tom Hanson
Aug 15, 2007

Route Name Trivia:
Evolution Revolution was the name of the Chimpanzee band from the old Saturday morning tv show, Lance Link Secret Chimp.
Classic. No doubt Ken and Mark remember that show.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 15, 2007

Evolution Revolution is also the name a Udo Neuman climbing video that has some of the best Euro footage ever.

By Jesse Huey
Apr 23, 2010

I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126.

Jesse