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 ADVANCED
Lower Grotto
Routes Sorted
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Affirmative Action S 
Bedeviled S 
Bergers Bakeshop S 
Better Late than Never S 
Bush in a Blender S 
Chopping Block S 
Diabolical S 
Evil S 
Good S 
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 
Muscle Crow S 
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 
Waiting to Procrastinate S 

Evil 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newell
Page Views: 656
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Denny Newell on the first ascent.

Description 

This fine route is the fourth bolted route (on the E wall) approached in the Lower Grotto. The route follows a rounded arete, occasionally veering onto the face to the right.

Begin right on the arete, where a few tricky moves get you over the intimidating roof, to a no-hands stance and the 3rd bolt. From here, it seems most folks veer right onto the face, with small rounded crimps on light-gray stone. However, its also possible, and perhaps a bit easier, to stay on the arete, using larger, textured sidepulls and edges. After the 5th bolt you used to head right to the last bolt of Good and a shared anchor, but an independent direct finish was added in summer '07.

Location 

Route #3 in the overview photo.

Protection 

6 bolts. 2 Bolt chain anchor.


Photos of Evil Slideshow Add Photo
Dave climbs past the first crux.
Dave climbs past the first crux.

Comments on Evil Add Comment
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By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 15, 2007

I can't take credit for this one. I believe the FA was done jointly by Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Denny Newell.
By Aaron Miller
Dec 11, 2007

  • Its the fourth route from the entrance
  • I put last bolt and separate anchors in Summer '07
  • Don't blow fourth clip or will hit the ledge, or worse. Could use retro bolting here.
By Karl Kiser
Apr 2, 2008

Guillatine crack above this route was not done by the old trad masters because of a huge flake to the left of the crack down low. Chris Kessler and I cleaned it off prior to the placement of the anchor at the top of the pitch. It is indeed a great pitch.

Greg Swift and Tim Johnson climbed the crack system immediately to the right by 1984 but unknown whether this was a FA.
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Aaron, if you are going to take it upon yourself and retrobolt a route that didn't need it, do it right. It sounds like it is more dangerous than the original line. Don't be lazy. Better yet, leave it alone. It had already been done. Go find a new line, there is plenty of rock out there.
By Aaron Miller
Jan 4, 2013

Um, you're kidding right?

I didn't change a thing to this route. There is now an optional last bolt to an individual anchor, separate from Good, so two parties can climb without battling for the anchor. You are still free to climb this in its original form, nothing changed, and traverse to the shared anchor with Good. All bolts (for better or worse) from the original line are intact, you should be happy to hear.

Rather than guessing at what it "sounds like", go check it out. Personally, I would welcome someone helping out my route to make it better. I don't claim to have done a perfect job every route I've set. Take Clovis Hunter for example. Lance went ahead without asking and put up an alternate finish on that route, which was already a very frequented classic line in the Solar Cave. He also moved the location of two bolts near the crux to reduce ankle or shin damage. I was psyched and thanked him. He gave something to the climbing community that will last a long time and improve the overall quality of the crag!!!

Also, see my comment for Chopping Block. It applies here too.

lazily typed from my computer chair....

-aaron