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Evil Shenanigans 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 513
Submitted By: Rob P. on Jan 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Plate at the bottom says it all ;)

Description 

First pitch (5.8) is juggy and fun. Second pitch has the 11b crux right in the begining. It climbs the blank gray face with small hands and almost no feet. Only ~20ft of 5.11 climbing followed by easy 10 climbing to the second anchor. 3rd pitch of 5.10 is the best pitch! Follows a great crack up a roof; sustained and fun with a nice top-out on Wonder Wall.

Location 

The furthest route to the right on Wonder Wall.

Protection 

Bolts all the way up. 3 anchor stations.


Photos of Evil Shenanigans Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the third pitch from the 2nd belay stance.
View of the third pitch from the 2nd belay stance.
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit is great!
The summit is great!

Comments on Evil Shenanigans Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 20, 2011

I did P1 and P3. Both are very good, especially P3.
By Phill T
Dec 25, 2014

P2 can be done two ways. Left at what I would call very technical and thin crimpfest with no feet 11++, or right using the somewhat dirty corner at more of an 11ab. Third pitch is super fun, well bolted and I felt pretty soft for 10d. Great ledges at all belays that have easily accessible anchors for the neighboring route. You could easily bypass the 11b and do the 10b? next door for a fun 9, 10, 10, 3 pitch route!
By Morgan F. Smith
From: Texas
Feb 8, 2016

Pitch one is pretty uneventful, but heads up to a nice ledge. Definitely lead pitch two, it's very technical, tiny and difficult. Small holds with no feet for the first 10-15 feet and then it lightens up. This pitch also ends at a great belay ledge. The last pitch is fun as well, leading to a nice summit with hanging belay. I'd say 14 draws should be plenty. A good cool down or warm up!

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