Evil Genius  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  K. Mclaughlin, S. Cheyney Submitted By:  david goldstein on Jun 15, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Evil Genius.... Good route.

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Description 

I enjoyed this surprisingly steep route as much as anything else I've done at TR, though the start is marred by some crumbly rock. Seemed tough for the grade e.g. harder than Bury the Bone. Goes into the shade earlier than most of the other routes on the east side of the Alligator Lounge.

P1. (10+, 60') The first 3m is the crux. A shallow 3/4" piece such as a red Alien or an orange TCU provides the only pro that would keep you off the deck. After the crux, move up on easier though not perfectly protected ground to a roof, pull this then blast up a thin hand crack to a ledge and a belay.

P2. (10, 60') Some gator skin face climbing leads to a crack which starts thin but widens wider than fists at the end. The angle eases off at the end so I didn't feel like I needed anything bigger than a blue Camalot. After topping out of the crack you can go left or right to anchors; neither choice is ideal. We went up and right to the top of the pinnacle where we established a gear belay from which we had to do a mini pitch to get down to the anchors.

We had a 70m rope each strand of which had about 3m remaining after rapping to the ground. I'm not sure if a 60m rope would make it to the ground and the rock overhangs enough that it would be a pain if it didn't.

Location 

Roughly 20m right of Daddy there is a buttress with a crack between two bolted lines. Evil Genius is the crack line.

Protection 

Stoppers and cams to blue Camalot with doubles in hand sizes.

Photos of Evil Genius Slideshow

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Under the roof . Kelly Hartman.	Kelly with sweet jam for his sandwich.	Good clean livin' for Kelly Hartman.
Josh below the roof getting ready to place first c...	Josh up and out the roof onto the steep face...it'...