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Devil's Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Streak T 
Bush Bullshit S 
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 
Evil Eye T 
Gothic Miller S 
Gothic Pillar T 
Hellevator Shaft T 
Horns Of Satan T 
Political Prisioner S 
Portable Darkness T 
Shadow of the Blade T 

Evil Eye 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Jonathon Smoot, and Glen Henshaw, September 2001
Page Views: 1,942
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation

Description 

Begin at lowest point of buttress.
Pitch #1: Follow 5 bolts past a tricky roof to a ledge and traverse right (5.9) to the belay or climb the crack to the right (5.7) of the first 3 bolts.
Pitch #2: Climb past a fixed piton through two more roofs and about 4 bolts to the two bolt belay. 5.10, 170'.
Pitch #3: Climb straight up great face climbing passing about 6 bolts to the the midway ledge. 5.10d or 5.11a.
Pitch #4: Scramble for about 160 feet up low angle looseness. 5.5.
Pitch #5: Head toward the areteand climb it until the huge ledge which shares the final pitch of Black Streak 100 feet to the left. 5.8.
Pitch #6: From the belay, traverse 40' to the left on the ledge and head up a steep short wall. The first bolt was marked with red tape to identify the route, but this may be gone. Belay at the first ledge encountered. 5.9.
Pitch #7: A short section of 5.11a face leads to a wonderful 5.6 handcrack to the top of the wall. 5.11a.

Location 

This route is located about 120' to the right of Black Streak. Either rappel Black Streak with one 60m rope or walk off.

Protection 

1 each #0-#3 microcams
2 each #.50-#1 Camalots
1 each #2-#3.5 Camalots
QDs and many shoulder length runners


Photos of Evil Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Final of pitch of what we thought was the Black Streak... is this actually the final pitch of Evil Eye?
Final of pitch of what we thought was the Black St...
Top of second pitch of Evil Eye
Top of second pitch of Evil Eye
Steppin' up on the last pitch of Evil Eye
Steppin' up on the last pitch of Evil Eye
Coming up the second pitch of Evil Eye
Coming up the second pitch of Evil Eye
First pitch of Evil Eye
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Evil Eye
Third pitch of Evil Eye
Third pitch of Evil Eye

Comments on Evil Eye Add Comment
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By bsmoot
Aug 5, 2007

Good on ya Tyler. Evil Eye is a bit sportier and requires more route finding than the other Castle routes. That said, it does have the best top out on the mountain.
By AGFW
From: Durango, CO
Jul 25, 2009

more like 10+ Rack recs here are a bit overkill, really only need a handful of cams from .5 inch up to 2 inch. Plenty of bolts and pins. Expect looseness, great topout!
By Moonfri
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Did this today, the first two pitches and last pitch were pretty sweet. A lot of big loose rock, not nearly as clean as black streak. Don't rap this one, walk off to the west. Most pitches are lead with just qd's.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Tied for best on the wall IMO (with Shadow), sustained and clean. The choss ledge is a lot better than on Gothic Pillar with flat dirt spots, short steep sections and barely any looseness. The moderate sections are runout enough to keep you on your toes, the hard bits protect well.
Definitely link the last 2 pitches together as the second to last is only 30' long.
You might be able to link P1 and P2 with a 70m although your 2nd may need to get to the 1st bolt (I had a 60m and a misprint on my topo led to this discovery).
Gear-wise, no nuts, no doubles and cams from .4 to #2 was spot on. You can place larger and smaller pieces if you have them. I clipped everything long, rope drag was never an issue and I don't think I used more than 10 runners/draws per pitch.
Lastly, 10b/c is a bit sandbagged. The crux section felt 10d/11a when climbed straight on, it's thin, a bit sequential and pumpy. Bit easier but more sustained than the crux of Shadow which settled at 10d. If you wander out left and come back to clip the bolts it might be mid-10.

Oh and if anyone goes up there it would be nice to bring a bit of skinny red webbing to mark the bolts as most of Brian's stuff is faded and battered. I found bits of it here and there and barely spotted some inobvious bolts that used to be marked.
By bsmoot
Aug 9, 2010

Glad you liked it Alexi. The reason for the 30' pitch near the top is because I'm a sucker for cool belay ledges...I couldn't resist. Normally I'm against tagging a bolt but this route needs it, as I once...uh...a...well...um...got temporally lost on a subsequent ascent.
By Brian in SLC
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

My rack recommendations are blue #1 TCU up through #3 camalot. Only double we used all day was in the .5 camalot range (and we had a #3 TCU in that size). No nuts used.

Great route! I thought the route finding wasn't too bad. Still some loose rock. I'd call any long route on DC PG or R rated for sure. Head's up!

I'll toss in my "obl" rating: 5.10b A0.
By steve santora
Jul 30, 2012

Climbed Evil. 7-29-12, Was evil for sure. Loose rock...worst of all Castle routes. P-2 poorly protected, hard to find belay last 40 feet easy but with loose rock and poor pro, nerve wracking.....Several pins were loose. Death boulders teetering as we speak. Be careful on this one, if you find a reason you need to climb it. Ill be on the other routes on the Castle for sure.