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Begin on the left side of the main wall and ascend the overhanging edge/arete using a combination of face holds and crack climbing techniques. Continue up to a slightly positive face beneath a large roof; traverse to the right to the roof's edge. Although this traverse is not particularly difficult, falling at this point could result in a nasty pendulum to the adjacent wall; exercise caution. At the lip of the roof, clip the last bolt on Evil Alchemist and continue up the face to the chains below the main roof.
Leftmost edge of the main wall, to the right of Meltdown.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor
|Comments on Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram)
Jul 24, 2008
This route started as something that Walt and I were climbing on before I bolted the Evil Alchemist. It was super chossy, so we relocated it into the crack, where you can get a couple nice hand jams before pulling on the slab. it's actually pretty fun if you like hand jams.
We named this route "Evil Elliot" after Elliot Bloch who was taking massive whips off this one while learning to sport climb at the time [he later became a total badass].
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 27, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This climb seemed substantially easier than the 11c rating given for it in the guidebooks (I used the crack), and I felt the bolt spacing was not something to get worried about.