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Eve’s Testicle 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Choli Ence, Todd Goss
Page Views: 618
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 17, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Eve's Testicle. From the guidebook it is kind of h...

In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

Ascend an ever-steepening face with many edges and pockets of various sizes. A very slightly overhanging bulge appears; the feet get smaller and the holds trickier. Good footwork and balance will see you through this short (2 bolt) crux.

After the bulge the angle eases slightly and the holds get huge, making for easy cruising to the chains.

An unexpected bonus is the appearance of a fossil impression of a bivalve shell on the top side of a chert knob a few inches above and a foot or so to the right of the last bolt.

Location 

The line starts to the left of large, light-colored triangle about ten feet up. The guidebook shows a project that starts to the right of the triangular feature and which shares chains with Eve's Testicle; however I didn't see any bolts for the project (at least down low).

Protection 

13 bolts to single-ring anchors.


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By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Dec 12, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Perin's description of this climb is totally perfect, even down to the fossil! This climb is worth it just to go see that thing.

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