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> Solarium
Everything Under The Sun
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 8
votes
Routes in The Solarium
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Everything Under The Sun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mere Mortals T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Message from the Stars T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Paris Hilton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunblessed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sunshine Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Brian Pegg, Karl Manzer, Damien McCombs |
| Page Views: | 2,080 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Hans Bauck on May 20, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Everything Under The Sun is a fantastic 3 pitch route that deserves more traffic than it gets. There is a lot of variety, a lot of exposure, and no crowds. There has been a lot of route development nearby, with 3 newly cleaned routes beginning from the same ledge.
P1: 30m, 5.10b. Follow the crack to its end using dyke holds next to the crack. Traverse right to a second crack then up to a roof. Make an exposed traverse under the roof (crux) using poor underclings and small face holds. Belay from two bolts at a hanging stance at the end of the traverse.
As of May 2012 this pitch was a bit scruffy, particularly the easy crack at the beginning. I gave it a bit of a scrub but you should expect some dirt.
P2: 30m, 5.10b. Runout climbing from the belay leads up to a roof. Traverse right using underclings, similar to the crux traverse on the first pitch, but easier. At the end of the traverse, follow a dyke right and up using a wild mantle. At the top of the dyke big holds lead over a small roof. A short lieback leads to the two bolt belay. This pitch is outstanding.
P3: 30m, 5.10a. Climb up and undercling left (crux) from the belay to a flaring hand crack. From the top of the crack climb a featured slab past bolts to the two bolt belay at the top of the wall.
P1: 30m, 5.10b. Follow the crack to its end using dyke holds next to the crack. Traverse right to a second crack then up to a roof. Make an exposed traverse under the roof (crux) using poor underclings and small face holds. Belay from two bolts at a hanging stance at the end of the traverse.
As of May 2012 this pitch was a bit scruffy, particularly the easy crack at the beginning. I gave it a bit of a scrub but you should expect some dirt.
P2: 30m, 5.10b. Runout climbing from the belay leads up to a roof. Traverse right using underclings, similar to the crux traverse on the first pitch, but easier. At the end of the traverse, follow a dyke right and up using a wild mantle. At the top of the dyke big holds lead over a small roof. A short lieback leads to the two bolt belay. This pitch is outstanding.
P3: 30m, 5.10a. Climb up and undercling left (crux) from the belay to a flaring hand crack. From the top of the crack climb a featured slab past bolts to the two bolt belay at the top of the wall.
Location
Access is either by rappel from the top (3x30m) or a scramble from the bottom.
You have options to reach the top. Take the 3rd Peak trail to just below the 3rd summit, where the hiking trail heads up on slabs. From here a rough trail leads west through a small forest. If you miss this, you can just traverse the slabs above the forest. You are trying to reach the top of the south east facing wall that overlooks the Oleson Creek valley, on the opposite side of the Chief from the highway. Look for two rappel bolts at the edge of the cliff.
Alternatively, climb Sunblessed to the top and traverse climbers right along the top of the wall for about 60m to reach the rappel bolts.
To reach the bottom, locate the trail for Above and Beyond and scramble up from there. This trail is on the Slhanay (Squaw) trail and can be reach either via the Chief backside trail or from Slhanay itself. I haven't done this approach.
Alternatively, I believe there is a rough bushwack trail from the base of Sunblessed to reach the base of Everything Under the Sun.
You have options to reach the top. Take the 3rd Peak trail to just below the 3rd summit, where the hiking trail heads up on slabs. From here a rough trail leads west through a small forest. If you miss this, you can just traverse the slabs above the forest. You are trying to reach the top of the south east facing wall that overlooks the Oleson Creek valley, on the opposite side of the Chief from the highway. Look for two rappel bolts at the edge of the cliff.
Alternatively, climb Sunblessed to the top and traverse climbers right along the top of the wall for about 60m to reach the rappel bolts.
To reach the bottom, locate the trail for Above and Beyond and scramble up from there. This trail is on the Slhanay (Squaw) trail and can be reach either via the Chief backside trail or from Slhanay itself. I haven't done this approach.
Alternatively, I believe there is a rough bushwack trail from the base of Sunblessed to reach the base of Everything Under the Sun.
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