Every Which Way But Loose
||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
|Original: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Pete Delannoy, Paul Muehl, Paul Piana, and Mark Smedley, June 30, 1979.|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||15|
|Submitted By: ||AhK on Feb 15, 2012|
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This is a really fun route with great moves that will keep you on your toes.
Start by scrambling to a large sloping ledge near a right-facing corner. There is a very thin crack in the dihedral that will hardly accept your smallest pro. Climb the short dihedral placing marginal protection to a good undercling that will take a hand-sized cam. From the undercling, traverse left following a mix of new and old fixed gear.
The traverse on steep rock is the crux, but is well protected. After the traverse, climb straight up past two more bolts and continue to the anchors.
Located on the N side of the Bell Tower. Start near the middle of the face in a shallow right-facing corner and make your way up and left to the notch near the Needle's Eye.
One 60 m rope will just barely get you down off the N side. Rapping off the S side with a single 60 will also put you on a ledge below another highly recommended route, For Whom the Bell Tolls.
Mostly fixed gear
Micro gear for dihedral and a hand sized piece or two for the undercling.
Make sure to sling your protection long to avoid rope drag during and after the traverse.
Two bolt anchor with webbing of various ages
Aug 24, 2015
Pete de Lannoy wrote a pretty epic short story about the FA of this route that can be found at the following link for $0.99 on Kindle.