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Easter Rock
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Egg 
Elanor 
Empire of the Fenceless 
Evermore 
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White Men Can't Jump 
Willard 

Evermore 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,955
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 20, 2002
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Description 

Climb the bottom of Elanor up left into two dynamic moves to its own chain anchors. The second dynamic move is the crux off of right-leaning slopers and tiny crystaline feet to a jug high and left. This is certainly one of the finer routes around which will shut down many comers due to the very cruxy nature of the climb. Good luck and have fun.


Protection 

7 or 8 bolts to chains.



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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 26, 2002

Another good option is to climb the crux of Telltale Heart, move right above the roof, and hook up with Evermore. This link up is more sustained and flows like honey on hot cakes. Try and suppress the urge to lunge at the crux. Simply jack your right foot up to a good foothold and go all the way with your right hand. The left hand hold is bad (sloper) but body position make the move possible!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 27, 2002

The variation is called Nevermore and is rated 5.13.a. Starting on Tell Tale Heart would certainly add nicely to the pump factor.

By Chris Archer
Sep 6, 2004
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Great extension to Elanor. The no hands rest on Elanor makes this significantly less pumpy than Nevermore. Still requires creativity for the devious crux. 8 bolts.

By ac
Jun 6, 2005

Any beta for the crux moves? From the slopey rail, it seems like a monsterous move to a jug. Any trickery here? The crux is difficult to work, since you end up taking repeated sizeable whippers while trying things out.

By ?????
Jun 7, 2005

I think there are two ways to toss up to the jug...one uses a sharp R hand with a devious L foot higher than you want, the key is to keep the L foot on long enough to toss/stand up with you L hand to latch the jug.

I think the other way involves going up with you R hand with lower, more even feet...better if you are taller.