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Event Horizon 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dan Ahlborn, January 1976
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: "Event Horizon".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This climbs the left edge of the Northeast Face, past horizontals and face past a bolt.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By C Miller
Administrator
May 23, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

Good climbing on this, but the top portion is runout and has a lonely feel to it when on the lead.

Here's a good article about the term "event horizon" - www.astronomical.org/astbook/blkhole.html.

By Pat W
Dec 3, 2007

I didn't lead this, but it seemed a bit easier than the 10b's nearby. Using a sidepull crimp on the left side of the arete through the crux may have helped. Maybe 5.10a + R-pucker factor means 5.10b? Nice route nonetheless, even better with a hard 10 start variation around to the left.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 3, 2007

I thought it was solid 10.b-, and nowhere near 10.a+. I top roped it too.



(yeah, I'm an ass, but slicing stuff that thin is kinda silly don't cha' think?)

while I'm at it edit: Blitzo, WTF is a "standard rack" pertaining to this climb? Do I need doubles to 4"? That is a standard rack..... Fix it up chowder head. Your submission needs some work.

By JOHN HYDE
From: twentynine palms ca
Sep 23, 2009

starting on the left side is a lot of fun, bring some webbing if your going to top rope (lots of drag)

By Doug99
Dec 9, 2010

Crux is at the top. It's 5.9 otherwise. Easy to TR, and with a little extension you avoid the crux. In fact, it's not recommended to TR it without extension as you could swing off to the left and get injured.

By Mary Moser
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

We set up a TR on this route and it was a lot of fun. There was only a few harder moves at the top, but we used the arete features.