This route is found on the South Face of Sheep's nose, on the approach to Ten Years After and just right and down from that route. The route is fairly obvious - just look for a short, mostly vertical buttress with two cracks. The right-angling crack to the left is apparently a 5.9, and it looked like it would require some horticultural skills to protect it. Evening Stroll is the right crack. Perfect hands leads to a short crux (good fingerlock), and then a rest and easy jams to the walkoff. A TR would be very easy to set up here. I give it two stars only because it is so short and leads to nowhere - otherwise it would easily be three stars.
Light standard rack to #3 Camalot size - doubles in #2 Camalot/#2.5 Friend would be nice but not absolutely necessary.
|By Bo Johnston|
May 22, 2004
Good route. My buddy, being new to trad leads, took the lead and sent it with a little trouble at the crux 2/3s of the way up. Jamming skills make or break this redpoint and tape wouldn't hurt (we didn't tape). 'cause, "Tape is Aid" as we were once told. J/KWe set an anchor at the top after climbing Chinook and left it to climb this route and then only one of us had to walk down to the right.
|By Ryan Tuleja|
Oct 20, 2005
just lead this route & had a blast. Being new to trad leading this was a good chance to set gear with little to no complications.
|By Pete J. Lardy|
Mar 22, 2009
"Tape is Aid" as we were once told. Don't listen to 'em man. I was told by Harvey C. that chalk is aid, I came out of a crack due to my sweaty fingers having not used chalk before this day. 30' fall! I then decided, climbing shoes could be considered aid. I use chalk sparingly, I tape up when I think I'll be needed, and I do wear rock shoes.