Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
2nd Meat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
At Your Cervix 
Bacon in the Sun 
Boss Hog 
Camping Under the Influence 
Cube Steaks 
End Of The Line 
Evening Ecstacy 
Extra Lean 
Family Home Night 
Gouge On It 
Green Eggs & Ham 
Hot Pork Sundae 
Humble Pie 
Idaho Flake 
Low Cholesterol 
Meat Machine 
Meat ya later 
Meating Jesus 
Mouse Meat 
Nerve Damage 
Ninja Bedwetter 
Pastafarian, The 
Pleased To Meat You 
Potato, The 
Samarai Loving 
Sesh One Cooking 
Smell the Meat 
Swedish meat balls 
Sweet Meats 
Switch, The 
T-Bones Tonight 
Tofu Crack 
Top Sirloin 
Tube Steaks Tomorrow 
Two Timer 
Two Timer II 
Unknown long corner 
Unknown R of Tube Steaks 
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake 
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter 

Evening Ecstacy 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Clint Dillard & Partner, 2004. (?)
Season: Gets AM shade.
Page Views: 1,929
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 23, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Kristin about to make the switch.

Description 

An unreadable plaque lies at the base of this climb because someone decided to scratch out the name and over-write it with the words "Bad Bolt."
THe bottom bolt of the anchor is indeed bad (refer to note on Protection) and should probably be replaced with a 1/2" in the same hole. The problem with this scribble job is that all you can read is gibbersh, so you don't know he name of the route or that there is a bad bolt until you come down and having already learned that, can decipher the plaque.
At the far left side of the lighter wall just left of Tofu Crack there are 3 climbs, Mouse Meat, a 140' tall 5.10+ crack route, then an unnamed 5.10 left-facing Flake, then this route, which ascends a crack system just at the left edge of the wall. Start up in one crack and just when it runs out, move left 5' into a different crack. The transition is the crux and can be protected well on a few cams on either side.

This is a reasonable warm-up route for the wall but is not typical of indian creek- the rock is a little softer and lighter and there are more holds and less pure crack climbing.


Location 

This climb is the last climb left of Tofu Crack in the lighter-colored wall, just before turning left around the corner past a tree to the base of the huge, left-facing "Two Timer" dihedral.


Protection 

A set of cams to hand-sized with a few large nuts or extra large finger sizes. (EDIT): The once-loose lower bolt, (owing to its poor placement) on this anchor has reportedly been repaired and beefed up.



Photos of Evening Ecstacy Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Parks getting into the switching-cracks crux of "Evening Ecstacy (5.9+)" on the 2nd Meat Wall of Indian Creek. Photo by Tony Bubb, 3/2007.
Chris Parks getting into the switching-cracks crux...
Chris Parks, a little Higher on "Evening Ecstacy" at the Second Meat Wall of Indian Creek. Photo by Tony Bubb, 3/2007.
Chris Parks, a little Higher on "Evening Ecstacy" ...
Rob Dillon on the 2nd ascent of Evening Ecstasy, just after the FA.
Rob Dillon on the 2nd ascent of Evening Ecstasy, j...
Looking down the route from the sharp end
Looking down the route from the sharp end
Comments on Evening Ecstacy Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

i had thought that the route might be called 'evening ecstacy" (?). tony's description is pretty accurate.

By chrisp
Apr 2, 2007

I found this route to be a little delicate and not your standard IC crack climb. This was an entertaining route that I suffered on due to the small jams. I made it to the anchors on this with my mantra-" I am not going to hang on a 5.9" Fun route!

By Rob Dillon
Apr 9, 2007

'Evening Ecstasy' was first climbed by Clint Dillard in 2004 or so. I believe Clint, or his partner, has on at least one occasion called up a first ascentionist to harangue him about poor bolt placement, so perhaps you may feel more justified in addressing your comments directly. He's sorta got it coming, I guess.

Sounds like the route has cleaned up OK.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008

Nice warmup. The anchor has been beefed up and is good to go.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2009

one of the easier lines in the creek. good warmup for the wall.

By Phill T
May 10, 2010

brand new closed coldshut about a foot above the original anchor. fun route, well worth your time.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 28, 2011

Anchor has been completely replaced and is bomber. Thanks!