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VHS or Beta S 

Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rich Aschert, Bob D, Ed Quesada
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 23, 2010

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Starting up the mellow corner.

Description 

This line offers some interesting climbing and an outstanding position, but unfortunately the rock is consistently poor throughout the first 6 bolts of climbing.

Stick clip the first bolt, and make awkward moves to gain the hanging dihedral. Easy liebacking & stemming work up and left along the crumbling corner. When the dihedral ends, pumpy moves lead to a stance at the corner of the big roof. The crux ascends the awkward crack on great rock to bigger holds near the top of the wall.

Location 

The next route right of Penetentiary Pump, or the 2nd route right of Librium Quiver, ascending a shallow dihedral immediately left of a low, enormous roof.

Protection 

Bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.


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EBDGAB follows the central corner system towards t...
EBDGAB follows the central corner system towards t...

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