Evanston Township Direct 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Paul Jones on Sep 28, 2009 |
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TR of Evanston TWNSP 5.10b variation. Feb. 19th, ...
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Description Thin crack left of Chicago - direct start using the face only, the regular route(10b) starts on a platform 10 feet of the ground. Left side of dihedral is off. Contrived, but good movement.
Protection Could be led with wires, not a safe fall on the cruxes though.
The anchor was in place already.... may as well le...
| This is where the ledge stops and the 5.10b Evanst...
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| Comments on Evanston Township Direct |
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By Paul Campbell From: Sussex, WI Nov 28, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| Did the regular route. The 11b version seemed extremely contrived. Definitely some fun moves at the top going over a roof, but an average climb overall. |
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Apr 24, 2011 rating: 5.10a PG13
| Led the regular route today. There is a bomber .4 Camalot about 6 feet below the crux and the crux piece is a questionable green DMM brass offset. If you were to blow the moves and rip this piece, you would certainly fall onto the blocks of Puff N' Grunt Chimney. Despite this the moves in the crux are technical though easy to read and fun. I wouldn't go as so far to say it's 5.10b though... Cheatah certainly feels harder by a lot. |
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