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Evanston Township Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Paul Jones on Sep 28, 2009
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TR of Evanston TWNSP 5.10b variation. Feb. 19th, ...

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Description 

Thin crack left of Chicago - direct start using the face only, the regular route(10b) starts on a platform 10 feet of the ground. Left side of dihedral is off. Contrived, but good movement.


Protection 

Could be led with wires, not a safe fall on the cruxes though.



Photos of Evanston Township Direct Slideshow Add Photo
The anchor was in place already.... may as well lead this thing.  My fingers didn't get hardly cold or frozen.  Very nice and warm in the sun on Feb. 19th, 2011 and no wind!
The anchor was in place already.... may as well le...
This is where the ledge stops and the 5.10b Evanston Township begins. Good movement, good rests and decent gear.
This is where the ledge stops and the 5.10b Evanst...
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By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Did the regular route. The 11b version seemed extremely contrived. Definitely some fun moves at the top going over a roof, but an average climb overall.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

Led the regular route today. There is a bomber .4 Camalot about 6 feet below the crux and the crux piece is a questionable green DMM brass offset. If you were to blow the moves and rip this piece, you would certainly fall onto the blocks of Puff N' Grunt Chimney. Despite this the moves in the crux are technical though easy to read and fun. I wouldn't go as so far to say it's 5.10b though... Cheatah certainly feels harder by a lot.