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Brinton's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berkeley T,TR 
Brinton's Corner T,TR 
Brinton's Crack T 
Brinton's Direct T,TR 
Cheap Thrills T,TR 
Chiaroscuro TR 
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 
Chicago T,TR 
Evanston Township T,TR 
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 
Golf Road TR 
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 
Rococo Variations T,TR 
Rubberman TR 
Sheep Thrills T,TR 
South Side T 
Stool Pigeon T 

Evanston Township Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: Paul Jones on Sep 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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TR of Evanston TWNSP 5.10b variation. Feb. 19th, ...


Thin crack left of Chicago - direct start using the face only, the regular route(10b) starts on a platform 10 feet of the ground. Left side of dihedral is off. Contrived, but good movement.


Could be led with wires, not a safe fall on the cruxes though.

Photos of Evanston Township Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor was in place already.... may as well le...
The anchor was in place already.... may as well le...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is where the ledge stops and the 5.10b Evanst...
This is where the ledge stops and the 5.10b Evanst...

Comments on Evanston Township Direct Add Comment
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By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did the regular route. The 11b version seemed extremely contrived. Definitely some fun moves at the top going over a roof, but an average climb overall.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Led the regular route today. There is a bomber .4 Camalot about 6 feet below the crux and the crux piece is a questionable green DMM brass offset. If you were to blow the moves and rip this piece, you would certainly fall onto the blocks of Puff N' Grunt Chimney. Despite this the moves in the crux are technical though easy to read and fun. I wouldn't go as so far to say it's 5.10b though... Cheatah certainly feels harder by a lot.

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