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Milky Way Wall
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Christian Burrell and Tristan Higbee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 12, 2008
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You start way over to the left for a short 5.5 app...


Means "space walk" in tech speak. This is the long route that marks the border of the Milky Way wall and the start of Saturn V. Begins on a high ledge that you have to scramble up the first slab of "Space Pigs A.T.A.L.S." Find some belay bolts with lowering chains at the bottom of a corner with lots of white spekles. Belay from here.
Head up the corner and the slab above passing a roof (.10b-ish) to a great upper slab.
Plenty of easy moves and good rest spots lead to a final steep pillar.
Move to the left side and look for some small holds to get started. Then move back right and make some exposed moves past a final roof to the chains.
There is a nice jug just above the chains to clip from. Lower back to the belay and then either down climb to the ground or use the chains to do a short rap. Worth doing for the position you achieve. The crux is only the last tiny bit.


12 bolts and chains

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By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Jul 12, 2008

Good, long route. I'd give it 2.5 stars. Fun slab for the first 3/4 of the route, interrupted by a tricky little roof. The final headwall crux is pretty tricky. Potential exists to the right of the headwall for an easier finish variaton.

By Clay Allred
From: Moab UT
Jul 31, 2008

Don't get comfortable on this route because the crux will spit you right off. Watch for loose rock! :)

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 31, 2008

Knocked off some large blocks that had to go. Didn't see any other dangerous blocks. Should be ok now. The blocks were at your feet right as you started into the crux.