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This is two routes right of The Anti-Phil
and climbs up a faint dihedral to a nice, colorful face and a finishing arete. Varied terrain and mulitple cruxes make for a memorable experience, as does the finishing sequence up the arete, one of the only bolted aretes at Rifle.
Either boulder up (5.10+) or stick clip the first bolt. Climb the corner to the base of the small roof band, then engage with the 2-3 bolt face above (easier if you go left and grab the footholds on Poetic Justice
). A good shake gives way to a dynamic sequence on cryptic holds that lands you at the base of the arete. Paw your way elegantly to the anchor.
The name derives from the locals' displeasure with a route-stealing Frenchman who on-sighted his way up The Anti-Phil
while it still had a red tag on it.
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
This is an awesome route!