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Anti-Phil Wall
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Euro Justice 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,356
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Apr 27, 2003

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Description 

This is a link-up that combines the best of two routes -- Eurotrash and Poetic Justice -- for a tour of some of the best stone at Rifle.

Climb Eurotrash all the way up and through the arete, clipping the second bolt on the arete. Take an incut, inset face hold left of the arete, and move left into the crux finishing bulge on Poetic Justice.

Either clip up into the first bolt on the Poetic Justice bulge, and return to unclip the last bolt on Eurotrash (for rope drag), or just punch it into the bulge having clipped only the bolt on Eurotrash (not a great idea, as it will be down and to the side of you should you fall gunning for the last bolt on Poetic).

Long slings on these last couple of bolts would save any sort of maneuvering around, and simplify things.

Protection 

10-12 quickdraws


Comments on Euro Justice Add Comment
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By Sven Lavransen
May 21, 2003

Many thanks to Mr. Samet for posting this route. After two weeks of travel to climb the fine desert sandstone, we returned to Boulder by coming first to Rifle. Jan has told me that many people who read the climbing web site feel that I showed too much ego in my writing, so here I will only say that the Euro Justice is a very fine and difficult combination of two separate climbs. It is a good to use long runners on Euro Justice before switching into the steep section on the left of the arete. This important information was already described. There are many other good climbs near Euro Justice and they also require much power and can give you a chance to climb on very similar routes. For my experience, this is the best climbing I have done in USA. But I think you would not find routes that are better climbing in Europe, it is only that training on pockets is not good preparation for climbing in Rifle!