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Eureka 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: EFR, Eddie Mofardin, and a lot of other folks '01
Page Views: 3,914
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Cameras position makes it look steeper than it is....

Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Big holds an a 45 degree wall until you reach the bouldery crux.

Location 

First route left of Hard Day... Starts in the water stain then works up and right. If it is wet at the 2nd bolt pull through to the dry holds.

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of Eureka Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Why it might be better not to hang upside down too...
Why it might be better not to hang upside down too...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dylan gets the most out of his day by working Eure...
Dylan gets the most out of his day by working Eure...
Rock Climbing Photo: Today's word of the day: overhanging.  Wow! Photo ...
Today's word of the day: overhanging. Wow! Photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mikie Elias getting the no hands rest.
Mikie Elias getting the no hands rest.
Rock Climbing Photo: Katch on the colorful Heureka
Katch on the colorful Heureka
Rock Climbing Photo: Some use a nohand rest here, but, it's not rea...
Some use a nohand rest here, but, it's not rea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vince Bates on Eureka.  Photo Geir Hundal
Vince Bates on Eureka. Photo Geir Hundal
Rock Climbing Photo: Katch on the colorful Heureka
Katch on the colorful Heureka
Rock Climbing Photo: I love the colors of this crag
I love the colors of this crag

Comments on Eureka Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 20, 2016
By jbak
Jul 11, 2008

So Eric, did you add a bolt at the start yet ? Great route !
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 11, 2008

I think Snyderman did as there is a bright shiny new one there. Vince just did the second ascent.
By Joe Kreidel
From: San Anyonio, TX
Sep 12, 2010

Eureka now has new hangers, chains and biners at the anchors.
By JesseJ
Sep 4, 2011

that crux man, that thing is beast.
By RyanJames
Jul 26, 2012

5.12a to a solid V5 crux.
By AlexToth
Jul 11, 2016

Hey heads up I took a fall toward the end of the crux of Eureka and some how the carabiner came off the chain part of the draw. Kind of a bit spooky. I haven't gone back up to check it out but I left the carabiner at the base. The bolt looks good and the chain is still hanging. Anyone heading up might want to bring a replacement not sure when I'll be back up there
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 11, 2016

This is the type of 'biner we placed up there during "Love Your Orifice" day in 2011:

climbtechgear.com/steel-carabi...

Don't know if the Petzl Djinn STEEL would work as well?

Anyway, a normal aluminum biner or quickdraw would work temporarily but should be replaced w steel eventually.

Not a clue how that thing came off the chain? Inversion plus gate flutter? A lot of them lost their anti-inversion pins fairly quickly, if you see one without a pin try to at least tape it down so it doesn't invert.

By jbak
Jul 11, 2016

Is it possible the chain broke ? I was on the route on saturday and noticed that some of the draws have sorta thin-ish chain.

I just ordered some cable-draws, maybe I'll contribute a couple. Christian, I've never seen the pins fall out of a complete, pre-assembled cable-draw.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 11, 2016

Thanks John, not sure about the last link in the chain. I saw the fall (Alex fell about 20 feet then another 20 when the biner came off) but was on the upper tier and way too tired to go check it out.

I believe you about the pre-assembled pins but once they were taken off to thread the chain, they didn't stay on very well when reinserted. (not sure if the bad ones were taken off with the wrong tool in some cases, had the threading stripped, wrong side inserted into the threaded hole, etc - but a lot of them are still doing fine)

I mostly belayed that day, so obviously not my fault ;-)
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 11, 2016

Please don't use any cable draws up there. I have read that they wear out as the cable takes whipper after whipper after whipper which these draws get. Just get up there and tape the biner back on so it doesn't do that again. There is a whole discussion about how the pins were fucked up when these draws were added. I really suggest you tape that biner back on.
By jbak
Jul 11, 2016

Really ?? I'd like to see what you are referring to. I've got about a dozen cable-draws hanging at various crags. It seems to me the swaging on a cable-draw would be just like the swaging on a stopper... pretty bomb-proof. Maybe it could be abraided by the wind whipping it against the rock...anyway, I'd like to know.
By Luke Bertelsen
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I've logged a lot of time in the last few years at Rifle and Maple which have cable draws galore. IMO, they are the way to go. There are so many crags across the US that get more traffic than the Orifice that have cable draws everywhere and I have never heard of one having major issues. Climb-tech, FIXE, and several other companies make them in multiple stock lengths and custom lengths if so desired.

Also....... Christian, the Petzl steel biners are great.

I'd also be totally willing to donate some cable draws on anything that is high traffic and currently has chains.
By AlexToth
Jul 12, 2016

The carabiner is back on the chain with tape keeping it from spinning
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 9, 2016

Right around the bolt that usually gets skipped on redpoint attempts there's a sharp flake system.

If you skip that bolt and feel like there's any chance you're gonna fall before clipping the next bolt (the one right before the crux), make sure to look down and check that the rope is not running behind that flake. I'm no expert, but to me the thing definitely looks sharp enough to cut a rope.

Last week, a friend borrowed my rope, and apparently left the rope dangling behind that flake while being lowered from the anchors. It got stuck there while I was just pulling the rope down, so the same could happen in a lead fall (the effective rope length would be shortened to the distance between your knot and the flake, creating a high fall factor onto a sharp edge).
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Aug 20, 2016

I just saw this thread about the carabiner falling off. I'm glad no one was hurt. The only way I can think of that this may have happened is that the rope was not fully clipped into the carabiner, but instead of caught between the gate and the nose. The rope would have held the gate open in this orientation. Since the carabiner was free to rotate it may have inverted and fully opened during a fall allowing it to slide off of the chain.

I believe that all of the steel carabiners on this route are wire gates and would not be susceptible to gate flutter.

These carabiners are quite a lot stiffer that aluminum ones. Please be careful while clipping them to ensure that the rope is fully in the inside to prevent the possibility of the above happening.

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