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Eureka

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burns' Gulch 
Calling (aka Night Vision), The 
Eureka Gulch Ice 
Fat City T 
First Gully T 
Goldrush T 
Highway to Hell 
Hoser's Highway 
Hoser's Highway Righthand 
Larry 
Moe 
On Ramp Slab Area 
Second Gully T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Tempered By Fire T 
Unknown (far left on OB Wall) 
Unknown Scrappy Gully  
White Trash 
Whorehouse Hoses 

Eureka 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.8808, -107.5666 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 95,531
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 30, 1999
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BETA PHOTO: Eureka Mine, Silverton, Feb., 2008.

Description 

Uphill from Silverton is a beautiful area of long ice climbs on both sides of the road. Whore House Hoses, Stairway to Heaven are among the classics. Beware however, avalanche risk can be tremendous. Some of these fine classics are in the sun and some are in the shade. Routes here can exceed 1000ft in length.


Getting There 

Take US Hwy 550 south of Red Mountain Pass (S of Ouray) to Silverton. Continue up the main drainage and only significant plowed road uphill as far as you can. Hike the rest of the way on the road. Avalanche debris may cross the road. Climbs are obvious from the road. Beware of avalanche slopes on the way in and out!


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eureka:
Unknown Scrappy Gully    WI3-4 M3-4     Mixed, Ice, 6 pitches, 1000'   
Tempered By Fire   WI4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   
Burns' Gulch   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 120'   
Highway to Hell   WI4+     Ice, 3 pitches, 800'   
Second Gully   WI3     Trad, Ice, 5 pitches, 800'   
Whorehouse Hoses   WI4-5     Ice, 3 pitches, 600'   
Goldrush   WI4     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 600'   
Stairway to Heaven   WI4     Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1200'   
Browse More Classics in Eureka

Featured Route For Eureka
Steve Berwanger on the aptly named Goldrush.

Goldrush WI4  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Eureka
This is a fun and asthetic 600 feet of climbing up a neat feature.P1 is low angle and you can save a lot of time by soloing/simul-climbing to the start of the difficulties.P2 is a full 60m of WI 4 to the best stances (right or left of flow) and....P3 is about the same difficulty and either 50m straight up to fixed gear on the right wall or 60+ m taking the steep left finish if in shape.While Roberts' book suggests a walk off, better to rap the route. Fixed gear on climber's right lets you get do...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Eureka Slideshow Add Photo
The Outward Bound bunkhouse with STH in the background.
The Outward Bound bunkhouse with STH in the backgr...
Comments on Eureka Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 25, 2002
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 11, 2002

Climbed "Tempered by Fire" in the Eureka area on 2/8. It's in fat and is fairly easy. "Stairway" looked awesome and "2nd Gully" looked very good, too. Most of the other climbs in the area are hard to get to right now due to three feet of trapdoor sugar snow. Got great local beta (and stayed in a nice room) from Jim Weller, owner of the Weller House Hotel, right on mainstreet (970)387-5334.

By Erik Johnson
Mar 4, 2002

2nd Gully on 3/2 was great fun. Four mellow pitches of WI 3- gets you to the top. Three double rope rappels off of trees gets you back down. About a 30 minute hike in. The Eureka Boarding House is now open and catering to ice climbers (although I'm still partial to the Weller House in Silverton). Enjoy!

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 25, 2002

There is some ice left. Tempered by Fire was a blast last weekend. The road is clear, so you can drive right up to it. Sadly, Stairway is not totally connected.