Eureka! 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, 1992 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Bobby P. on Eureka.
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Description This takes the smooth face a ways left of 200 Motels/Taken For Granite that passes over a small roof/overlap midway up.
Sustained climbing with a distinct crux is played out on high-quality stone far better than the usual Indian Cove oatmeal.
Not too far from the car, but far enough away to get a feel for the wildness that Rattlesnake Canyon has to offer. Well worth a visit for this or one of the other fun routes on Rattlesnake Buttress.
Protection 10 bolts, bolted anchor/rap
Rappelling Eureka
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Bob Gaines on the first ascent, 1992
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BETA PHOTO: Photo by John Heyges
a) 200 Motels
b) Eureka
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By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 14, 2003
rating: 5.12b
| This incredible route is another classic by Bob Gaines. Sustained 5.11 face climbing past the first 7 bolts leads to a very difficult move to an undercling and the 8th bolt. Gaining the 9th bolt involves perplexing and strenuous moves; once deciphered enlightenment is achieved. At least four out of five stars. |
By Randy
Feb 14, 2010
| Enlightenment was not obtained. Fantastic and sustained climbing to the roof on impeccable grey rock.
The rappel off the anchor is nearly 100 foot. A single 60 meter suffices. |
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