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In the old days, this was the place to go if you were seeking challenging moderates or warm-ups for the exciting upper grades the canyon has to offer. To a degree, this is still true. However, in today's modern 21st century, the second and third wave of route development has turned this former one horse climbing area into stronghold of moderates and upper end test pieces.
Many of us like going to the Sunshine wall because the hike is easy and enjoyable. The new guidebook describes a trail that should bring you right up to this area, however, it can be a pain in the neck to find. To use this new trail park in the large Sunshine parking lot and start hiking uphill towards Newcastle. Keep looking to the right until you see a small sign that says "Butt Rocks" and follow the meandering, not-so-well developed trail to the crag.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall"
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall":
July 4th 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Simply Ravishing 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 70'
The Euphamiah Beresford Memorial 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 70'
Dr. Feelgood 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 50'
Sink It and Wink It 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 60'
She's Only 17 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 17'
Rebel Yell 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 50'
Once Bitten, Twice Shy 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 65'
Crimptonight 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Panama! 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 55'
Featured Route For Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall"
Rebel Yell 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a SD : Spearfish Canyon : ... : Euphamiah Beresford Memoria...
In the midnight hour you will grab big, steep pockets, layback a wicked fun flake, fingerlock your way up a finishing crack, and cry "MORE! MORE! MORE!"The only downside is that it is over so quickly....[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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