|Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall"
In the old days, this was the place to go if you were seeking challenging moderates or warm-ups for the exciting upper grades the canyon has to offer. To a degree, this is still true. However, in today's modern 21st century, the second and third wave of route development has turned this former one horse climbing area into stronghold of moderates and upper end test pieces.
The EBM/Butt Rocks area is also nice because it goes in the shade a little sooner than the rest of the Sunshine Wall, which tends to become a bit toasty after June. There is only one drawback to this beautiful area, that being poison ivy, which locals like myself just deal with by having a solar shower, soap, and lots of different medicinal ointments back at the car. Or, if you so choose, simply avoid this area during the peak summer months, only hitting it up in the early spring and latter fall. Winter time at this area tends to be a bit colder than The Big, Black Face, yet if you get there early enough in the morning, this area can be divine even if January. I've literally gone climbing here in the morning till I couldn't stand it anymore than took off and went snowboarding.
Oh my God! Say no more! This place is awesome and if you don't climb here at some point in your life you will have surely missed out on something worthwhile.
The area has a bit of historical significance and the first routes were named in honor of a gold miner who penciled his name, and a brief, temporal statement, on the wall sometime during the days of yore. The second and third wave of route smiths must have gotten bored with this old-timey theme and most of the newer routes have an obsession with our spandex and leather-clad cock rockers of the days of yore. And to think, "Rebel Yell" was one of my favorite songs as a strapping, young lad. Christ, I feel old.
Many of us like going to the Sunshine wall because the hike is easy and enjoyable. The new guidebook describes a trail that should bring you right up to this area, however, it can be a pain in the neck to find. To use this new trail park in the large Sunshine parking lot and start hiking uphill towards Newcastle. Keep looking to the right until you see a small sign that says "Butt Rocks" and follow the meandering, not-so-well developed trail to the crag.
Or, if you don't mind the extra hiking, take the original trail;
From the parking lot, hike up the hillside trail and then hang a left once you hit the First Wall. Then, keep walking and walking and walking past the Ex Wall, past the Prow, past the TKO Wall, past the Big, Black Face, past the In-Between-Routes, past the AMC Wall, past the Land of the Shorties, and finally past the Attitude Wall. If you decide these climbs are too hard for you, if you keep on walking, your next destination will be The Bunny Slope, which has perfect beginner and beginning intermediate climbs. Or, if you decide these climbs don't look challenging enough, keep on walking past the Bunny Slope to The Thunderhead, where the stronghold of Strongman climbs resides. However, most climbers looking for long routes, five-fun routes and an assortment of hard-ass climbs will definitely find the long walk to the EBM/Butt Rocks area worth their while.
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Refusing to use a bad mono and silly hard moves. G...
the footholds are select-a-sloper of your choice.
Arrrrgghhh, the true lobster grip of Mr. sausage f...
toss out right, yaa
almost thru it
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