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Stately Pleasure Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival T 
Black Angel T 
Boltway T 
Cross Reference T 
Daddy's Little Girl T 
Death Crack T 
Dixie Peach T 
Eunuch T 
Footnote T 
Get Slick T 
Great White Book T 
Hermaphrodite Flake T 
Mosquito T 
Shadow Nose T 
South Crack T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Table of Contents T 
Turning Japanese T 
Way We Were, The T 
West Country T 
White Flake T 

Eunuch 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Eric Beck and Bob Kamps, July 1971
Page Views: 1,495
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 13, 2006

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the top of "Hermaphrodite Flake", climb up and slightly right to a bolt, forty feet out. Diagonal right, eighty feet (5.6R) to a belay.
The next pitch is protected by two bolts and ends at a short crack.
Scrambling leads to the top.

Protection 

Draws, stoppers.


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By Tony Lewis
Aug 16, 2016

The Eunuch is the first four bolts of the Boltway minus the first four bolts. The Boltway was put over the top of the Eunuch. To do the Eunuch, skip the first four bolts of the Boltway and clip the shiny new 3/8" bolt and head right. It's the only bolt on the pitch. The Reid/Falkenstein guide is wrong.

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