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Eumenides 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Hurley and Walter Fricke, 1970
Page Views: 2,478
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

A good, long moderate route that gets better after a grungy start. Easily identified as beginning just past a giant dihedral, that runs up the entire height of the cliff, toward the west end of Sundance Buttress.

P1- Scramble up 3rd class until your comfort level warrants a belay, Climb into the huge dihedral, and follow it past a dirty wide section, then traverse left across a slab to a belay (5.8, 160 [to 210] ft.).

P2. Climb up a ways and then head right, linking discontinuous features to belay back towards the main dihedral (5.7, 120 ft.)

P3. To start, aim for a shallow, right-facing dihedral, not the larger, obvious crack to the left. Work steadily up and left across an exposed vertical wall, following short cracks. [At about 100ft up, angle more strongly left. Belay at a tiny, exposed stance below a right angling crack (5.8, 150 ft.).

P4. Climb the right crack, then go back left up a ramp system to a belay (5.6, 120 ft.).

P5. Climb a large, left-facing corner and turn a roof on either side with 5.8 moves. Continue to a ledge (150 ft.)

P6. A short 40 feet finds the top. Carefully scramble east for a good ways to find the descent route.


Protection 

Standard rack to a #4 Friend.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 16, 2010
By Matt Bauman
Jan 1, 2001

I loved pitch 1....almost 200 feet of steep jamming and stemming to the roof that takes a #1 Camalot and then you traverse straight left with no pro for 30 feet to large ledge with tree anchor. I loved this pitch but my partner at the time invited his "girlfriend" and she fell at the steepest section in the dihedral and got a bit banged up (rope stretch and she took an upside downer cuz her foot got stuck in the crack) and then, after recovering, she climbed up to the roof, pulled the #1 Camalot and clipped it to her harness, started the traverse and on the first step she fell/let go and took a 30 foot pendulum....UGH!! After getting to the belay and bawling for 30 minutes she said she was ready to go on....HA, I said sorry we need to bail. The whole approach I was asking her, "so you can follow sustained 5.8, right?" She went on and on about 5.9s at Lumpy she's done.....wasn't too happy with my partner either for inviting her along for me to lead a party of 3, and the 3rd was lying about her ability and almost got hurt because of it......I'd like to go finish Eumenides sometime.

By Matt Bauman
Jan 1, 2001

My buddy said that pitch 1 was the only pitch he liked on the route and that the rest of it was meandering and non-aesthetic....no matter, I just love big dihedrals with jamming and stemming....Right Dihedral on the Pear is very similar but much harder. I wanna do Grapevine, Guillotine, Mainliner and a bunch of the others also...Kor's Flake was a blast.

By Matt Bauman
Jan 1, 2001

I agree Charles, I've heard mixed reviews about Eumenides, and since there are plenty of other routes on Sundance I want to climb, I doubt I will get on Eumenides again anytime soon. The Nose looks awesome!!!!

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 1, 2001

Overall, I'd recommend the other routes I've done on Sundance more. Eumenides does kind of have a neat "adventure" feeling, though--big face, long approach (for a "crag"), wandering, sometimes dirty, often very steep pitches...and pitch three is an awesome pitch in its own right.

By Erik Corkran
May 29, 2001

Well I guess it's about time I got to looking around this page. I was the one that told Matt that pitch one was the only one I liked. I really don't like the route Euminides at all. The last time I did it I kept wondering why we didn't just go straight up the dihedral and stop wandering around. Why did I do I route that I don't like twice? Well the first time was my first "big" route, seemed very epic and scary so I thought I would do it again sometime. The second time we got caught in a delightful sleet storm just before the last pitch, was so cold I just aided it. Definitely my least favorite that I have climbed on Sundance.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 5, 2001

I did this route last summer and felt like the long approach wasn't really worth it. To this day, I am confused as to whether I was even on route for P3. I am solid on 5.8, and I couldn't get up this pitch! I thought that maybe I was off on the 5.10a, but based on the topo I really don't think I was. The topo describes a discontinuous crack on the face - I felt like I was there, but I could barely get enough fingers in the crack to aid the damn thing! P1 was definately the only one I enjoyed. -Daria McKay

By Mike Bentley
Jul 27, 2001

P3 was awesome, I can't believe that no one else liked it. Exposure, good pro, when you can find it, and how about that belay on the arete. I guess that I am in to wandering "adventure climbs" coming from the Teton area. Any other suggestions?

By Brian Sorden
Jul 31, 2001

After my near epic on this classic moderate, I enjoyed reading all the other comments. To the "unprotected" left traverse at the top of the first pitch, I sunk three great pieces before the belay. That girl should be pissed that she wasn't protected against the swing. I thought the first and third pitch were worth the approach. Yes, there are other routes on Sundance, but Eumenides offers a long route with interesting features and a shaded first pitch if you start early. Sundance is all about the approach and descent. If you don't like to earn your climb, go get on one of the helmet parties on the Wind Tower. As I sat on the last grassy ledge taking in the view of the Diamond late in the afternoon, Mark Winstead was getting into the 8+ roof. A curtain of rain, south across the valley, began to move toward us, trumpeted by the thunder and wind. Suddenly, we were being soaked by great bullets of rain and blasted with high speed winds. I looked up over Mark to the darkening sky, a horizontal bolt of lightning crackled right over his head. I started yelling at him to leave gear, rap off to the ledge so we could weather the storm with our metal gear far away from us. He said nothing, but instead of lying back the right roof, made tenuous moves, unprotected onto the arete at his right. Up and over, my turn to climb the soaked last pitch. The sun reappeared as we crested the false summit, pushing back the storm clouds and drying my near tears. A day on Euminides, unforgettable, made us happy to be alive. BTW: The west descent from the top of Sundance is probably not the funnest (cleanest/safest) way to go but it works. George Hurley and Walter Fricke did the FA in 1970.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2001

I loved Eumenides. The sleet storm we encountered certainly added to the epic "flavor" of this great adventure route. Great practice for route finding if you are planning on climbing big walls. We stumbled upon it because Kor's Flake was crowded... and we were psyched. Great fun.

By Errett Allen
Jun 4, 2002

Climbing Sundance *IS* an adventure and a route like Eumenides epitomizes this. The only pitch that sucks is the fourth. The fifth, although dirty in places, still has some good climbing. The third pitch is definitely the best. Make sure to add your route-finding skills to your rack.

By Dr. Dan
Sep 13, 2003

Just climbed Eumenides yesterday (9/12). Due to the winds of 40 mph, cold in the morning and the wandering nature of the route it was a near alpine experience. We did the route to the very top in 5 pitches. My partner (Todd) and I would agree on the ** rating, but we had a great time on all the pitches. I would recommend it as an alpine primer. P1, 3, and 5 were challenging 5.8s. On the last pitch, I went up, then out left to just under the last rise. At this point the climbing straight up looked dirty and uninteresting, so I traversed right for about 30'. At this point there were two parallel hand cracks going up a wide chimney for about 20'. It was one of the best sections of the entire route, but I am not sure if it was even part of Eumenides. If anyone is familiar with this please respond. By the way, I carried a #4 Metolius all the way to the top and never used it. Micro cams to #3 Mets, nuts and few smaller TCUs were all very useful, but I would recommend leaving the big gear at home.

By Dave Wise
From: Pinehurst, NC
Jun 18, 2006

Did this route last summer (June 05). Hiked up to get on Mainliner but encountered an AMGA class already on that and a few other routes. One of the gentlemen recommended Eumenides.

Turned in to a routefinding epic day. I think we were on route for the first 3 pitches, but traversed left into a dihedral for pitch 4. The 3rd pitch was quite nice. Up high, it had a committing friction move well above my last pro (slung horn 20 feet below me) and a fall would have been ugly. Then it required an uncomfortable hanging belay.

After looking at the terrain above, my partner decided to check out a left-facing dihedral off to our left and made a short pitch over to it. Our 5th pitch up the dihedral turned out to be difficult and wet necessitating a pendulum left to another feature. After another short pitch, I think we got back on route--we were never really certain. Adventure climbing indeed. In all, it took us 7 pitches to summit (including the short pitch to get in the dihedral). We kept wondering where the heck the summit was!

We were moving pretty slow and spent a good portion of the day on the wall. Silly me forgot to stuff a rain jacket into my camelbak. The clouds and wind kept moving in and blowing back out all day. Was a bit chilly, but at least we didn't get wet. Most dogs learn not to crap on the floor after a good spanking. How many cold belays must I suffer before I remember to always carry something to keep warm and dry!!

At the time we were a bit displeased with the guy who recommended the route, but afterwards appreciated the nice pitches and enjoyed the effort. Still, wouldn't say that it justifies the hike out there.

By P.D.Williams
From: Lakewood
Jun 20, 2009

I would not hike to Sundance again to climb Eumenides. P1 was OK, but the traverse is a potentially dangerous runout - make sure you protect the undercling. It's an awkward pitch. P2 was fun, but by the time I got to the belay, the rope drag was massive. P3 was great until I got through the crux(?). I angled to the right and clipped an O ring that was attached to few pieces of abandoned pro - above that it got steep, hairy and the pro vaporized. I lowered/down climbed and tried going left (5.6 according to the guidebook) which was fine for a while - still no pro. We finally rapped off. Given the voluminous amount of slings hanging off this wall, I gather we are not the first party to bail off this route. The climbing is not overly difficult, although it did feel harder than 5.8 at several spots. The lack of pro sketched me out. I apologize for being negative - this climb does not deserve a star. I wish I had conferred with Mtn Project before I committed to this one....

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I guess I'm just old school, but I thought that this climb BITD was an adventure to be remembered. Maybe new school climbers only enjoy an obvious, well-protected challenge and don't appreciate the route finding thing. Between the long approach, the route finding, the little gems of cool climbing pitches between the grunge, and the mid 5th class runouts, I totally digged this climb. I did it just before doing Culp-Bossier on Hallett, and I think it was the perfect warm up.

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

First, I would say that a standard rack is sufficient for this climb. I did not bring a #4 and thought it wasn't needed. You could place it on P5 but there is ample smaller pro placements at the same place, so don't bother lugging it up there.

I also did not think this was runout at all. On P1 you can place pro in the undercling on the slab traverse. The rest all protects well.

Route finding was also not difficult following the description here. The only non-obvious pitch was P3:
"P3. To start, aim for a shallow, right-facing dihedral, not the larger, obvious crack to the left. Work steadily up and left across an exposed vertical wall, following short cracks. [At about 100ft up, angle more strongly left. Belay at a tiny, exposed stance below a right-angling crack (5.8, 150 ft.). "

So, obviously, don't be mislead by the ring hanging above you in the dihedral, go left... that part was obvious from the description. There is an obvious, right-facing dihedral just to the left of the belay that I headed for and I am pretty sure that is the route. I did not see the "obvious crack to the left" unless they are talking about the crack with bushes growing out of it further down....
The shallow corner is the crux of P3 and looks steep and exposed. It protects well, and although it looks intimidating, the moves are only 5.8 once you commit to them. We ended up on the exposed belay right on the arete with the crack above angling back and to the right. From there, the route finding is once again obvious.

I did not think this route was bad or as awful as some people here. However, it was not nearly as nice climbing as Mainliner or Kor's Flake....