|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Roger Briggs, Steve Nelson, 1971 FFA: Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare 1975|
|Submitted By:||jason seaver on Jan 8, 2006|
|Comments on Euclid's Corner||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
The 5.10b/c given to this route in Rossiter's book looks like a Y.D.S. rating but is not. In fact, is it a Dan Hare euphemism for "I dunno, but it is really awkward." Anyone climbing any of his 5.10b/c routes on Hawk Eagle Ridge in Eldo should be familiar with this particular sub-grade. While the route is not greatly challenging, you might find it awkward.
Of note, this is NOT a good route to push limits, mental or physical on, for the first or second. The initial 20' is not protected and while not hard is NOT a give-me (5.8, X) and the upper part is protected frequently, but mostly on very small nuts (from brass up to #5 BD stopper + 2" cam in a horizontal I cleaned out). My second fell after the crux and swung out quite a way and could not get back into the corner. He elected to reattain the main system via a tree-choked crack out to the right.
The roof up top is a little thuggish, but far easier than the thin dihedral and does not require wide gear. I was perfectly happy with a single set of Camalots to #3 and a set of stoppers + RPs.