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Northeast Buttress
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Etude 
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Flower of High Rank 
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Spooky Spike 
Wet Dreams 

Etude 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Larry Reynolds & R. Wendell, 9/69, FFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison & Tobin Sorenson, 1974
Page Views: 6,334
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
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Description 

This is a fun, clean crack route that requires more finesse than strength. The delicate crux section, with side pulls and shallow, flared foot jams, is well-protected with fixed pins. An easier finger and hand crack above leads to the belay. There is a second pitch, but most people rappel after pitch 1. This route is located just left of Flower of High Rank.


Protection 

small to medium pieces plus quickdraws for the fixed pins



Photos of Etude Slideshow Add Photo
My first time on the climb, gnarly.  Photo by Tony Grice.
My first time on the climb, gnarly. Photo by Tony...
Its all good from here... past the crux and in the splitter finger and hand crack.
Its all good from here... past the crux and in the...
Maumau making the reach to transfer into the right crack.
Maumau making the reach to transfer into the right...
This is what this climb is about.  Maumau stemming on delicate toe locks.
This is what this climb is about. Maumau stemming...
Jeff G OS
Jeff G OS
Etude.
Etude.
Maumau engaged in the crux
Maumau engaged in the crux
Jeff G OS
Jeff G OS
Me and AJ Burch on the second pitch of Etude.  Photo by Tony Grice.
Me and AJ Burch on the second pitch of Etude. Pho...
Etude <br />
Etude
Comments on Etude Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2012
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006

A great route that's more of a face climb at the crux (fixed pins are usually present); once past the crux the crack is no harder than 5.9 and opens up to wide fingers and then hands. The 2nd pitch is good as well, but most rap off (130') after the 1st.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 4, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Outstanding climb that sux up nuts and small cams. Exiting P1, a 5.9+ move with shakey pro is encountered. Top notch.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 24, 2006

A wonderful line. If the pins are good then it's well protected at the crux, although I wouldn't be surprised if the top pin has taken more than its share of shock loading.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 20, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I indeed gave that top pin a load test....

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 11, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This is defiantly one of my favorite climbs on this side of the valley.A real gem!!

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 28, 2008

Fixed pins looked good on 10/26, so good that I whipped onto the 3rd one. Technical and a little tenuous, delicate not powerful. A 70m rope will put you about 15' off the ground in 3rd class terrain from top of p1.

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 3, 2009

Both pitches can be combined into one with a 60m rope. The second pitch has an exciting move or two on so-so rock leading to secure jams, and then it joins the last ten feet of Flower of High Rank.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 5, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Kinda interesting that this doesn't have more comments...

By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Aug 16, 2011

The last time I did this gem was probably mid/late 80's. Same old pins as the first time , except that one was now tweaked (forget which) rendering the eye unclip-able - but providing a reasonably good wired placement #6 ? in a slot between the rock & bent metal. Maybe there's another dinosaur out there that remembers this unorthodox clip ?

By JFK
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 8, 2012

I've taken a handful of 15 footers on the pin below the crux in the last couple weeks. The final pin is higher now and hard to clip until you've cleared the crux now. 4 pins total. 1 before the 10a traverse down low, 2 below the crux and 1 after the crux

By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
May 15, 2012

You can get down to 3rd class terrain by rapping climber's right with a 60m rope from the anchors atop p1, so don't worry if you don't have a 70.

Also, this route is equipped with those great rounded metolius hangars that you can thread your rope right through. Convenient!

By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2012

As of 9/16/12 there is only one remaining knife blade. It is mid crux above the traverse. There are pin scars where the old pins were that provide excellent pro (especially with C3's). Route is pure, with delicate moves on good rock.