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BETA PHOTO: Henry Robinson on Ethnic Cleansing, January 2013
Outstanding Foster Falls test piece at the grade. Moderate 5.11 climbing leads to one distinct dyno (a static move for climbers over 6 ft) crux with strenuous climbing until you reach the chain anchor.
On the right side of the Right Bunker.
Six Bolts to a chain anchor
Henry Robinson on Ethnic Cleansing, preparing to c...
|Comments on Ethnic Cleansing
Feb 28, 2007
DCA gives this a 12b/c, but it may be harder since a block at the anchor fell off a few years ago. I think it's solid c.
For me, crux was making the anchor clip.
Could use bolt replacement on crux "spinner". The consequences of that bolt failing could be very dire.
Mar 24, 2007
I noticed that bolt needs it nut tightened. Maybe a glue in would be better. Yes the consequences of that bolt failing would be about as bad as it gets
|By Ryan J|
From: chattanooga tn
May 21, 2007
Ethnic is solid 12b. The 'dyno' is a trick move that is maybe V1. The redpoint crux is usually clipping the chains.
As of 19May2007 both anchor biners are new.
Feb 8, 2008
12a and the worst route in the right bunker. I can only assume its popularity is due to the crazy soft grade that people want to give this route. Abacus and Bottled Up Warrior are so much better and only 30 feet away.
Jul 9, 2008
Fun route, but no better than 2 stars. Probably 12A.
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 11, 2012
I believe the recent perma-draw work was done by the Action Fund.