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Unsorted Routes:

Ethnic Cleansing 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1993
Page Views: 2,396
Submitted By: FC John on Dec 4, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Henry Robinson on Ethnic Cleansing, January 2013

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Description 

Outstanding Foster Falls test piece at the grade. Moderate 5.11 climbing leads to one distinct dyno (a static move for climbers over 6 ft) crux with strenuous climbing until you reach the chain anchor.


Location 

On the right side of the Right Bunker.


Protection 

Six Bolts to a chain anchor



Photos of Ethnic Cleansing Slideshow Add Photo
Henry Robinson on Ethnic Cleansing, preparing to clip the last draw before anchors. January 2013
Henry Robinson on Ethnic Cleansing, preparing to c...
Comments on Ethnic Cleansing Add Comment
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By 426
Feb 28, 2007

DCA gives this a 12b/c, but it may be harder since a block at the anchor fell off a few years ago. I think it's solid c.

For me, crux was making the anchor clip.

Could use bolt replacement on crux "spinner". The consequences of that bolt failing could be very dire.

By bbrock
From: Al
Mar 24, 2007

I noticed that bolt needs it nut tightened. Maybe a glue in would be better. Yes the consequences of that bolt failing would be about as bad as it gets

By Ryan J
From: chattanooga tn
May 21, 2007

Ethnic is solid 12b. The 'dyno' is a trick move that is maybe V1. The redpoint crux is usually clipping the chains.

As of 19May2007 both anchor biners are new.

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 8, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

12a and the worst route in the right bunker. I can only assume its popularity is due to the crazy soft grade that people want to give this route. Abacus and Bottled Up Warrior are so much better and only 30 feet away.

By Gregg
From: Englewood
Jul 9, 2008

Fun route, but no better than 2 stars. Probably 12A.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 11, 2012

I believe the recent perma-draw work was done by the Action Fund.