Ethnic Cleansing 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Eddie Whittemore, 1993 |
| Submitted By: | FC John on Dec 4, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Henry Robinson on Ethnic Cleansing, January 2013
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Description Outstanding Foster Falls test piece at the grade. Moderate 5.11 climbing leads to one distinct dyno (a static move for climbers over 6 ft) crux with strenuous climbing until you reach the chain anchor.
Location On the right side of the Right Bunker.
Protection Six Bolts to a chain anchor
Henry Robinson on Ethnic Cleansing, preparing to c...
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| Comments on Ethnic Cleansing |
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By 426 Feb 28, 2007
| DCA gives this a 12b/c, but it may be harder since a block at the anchor fell off a few years ago. I think it's solid c. For me, crux was making the anchor clip. Could use bolt replacement on crux "spinner". The consequences of that bolt failing could be very dire. |
By bbrock From: Al Mar 24, 2007
| I noticed that bolt needs it nut tightened. Maybe a glue in would be better. Yes the consequences of that bolt failing would be about as bad as it gets |
By Ryan J From: chattanooga tn May 21, 2007
| Ethnic is solid 12b. The 'dyno' is a trick move that is maybe V1. The redpoint crux is usually clipping the chains. As of 19May2007 both anchor biners are new. |
By yevquest From: Southeast,US Feb 8, 2008 rating: 5.12a
| 12a and the worst route in the right bunker. I can only assume its popularity is due to the crazy soft grade that people want to give this route. Abacus and Bottled Up Warrior are so much better and only 30 feet away. |
By Gregg From: Englewood Jul 9, 2008
| Fun route, but no better than 2 stars. Probably 12A. |
By Jeff Mekolites From: HOTlanta, GA Oct 11, 2012
| I believe the recent perma-draw work was done by the Action Fund. |
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