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Left of Up a Cliff Without a Ladder, is a finger crack that works through a roof. The roof may seem like the crux from below, and whereas it is hard, the crux is the crack above the roof. Glassy rock on the right side of the crack adds to the overall complexity of the route. Very sustained from the roof through the crack. After the crack turns into the shattered rock, loose rock starts appearing and the gear gets harder to locate, however the climbing eases. A fun but short lower section, is hurt by the quality of the rock above.
Look for the obvious nice finger crack through a roof, left of Up a Cliff Without a Ladder.
Small to medium gear for the crack, runners if you place a piece below the roof. I used Red Metolius and down for the crack. Nuts also worked well, but were pumpy to place. No anchors for the top, so bring your own gear for that also. There is a nice crack to use at the top (#2 Camalot size, medium hexes) for the anchor.
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